M-100 Message Board
M-100 Message Board
Home | Profile | Register | Active Topics | Members | Search | FAQ
Username:
Password:
Save Password
Forgot your Password?

 All Forums
 M-100 Message Forum
 6.9
 6.9 #521 Restoration
 New Topic  Reply to Topic
 Printer Friendly
Previous Page | Next Page
Author Previous Topic Topic Next Topic
Page: of 12

wbrian63

USA
901 Posts

Posted - 11/01/2013 :  08:12:34  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Now that the massive bulk of the M100 has been removed from the engine bay, cleaning operations are at full speed - or at least my speed.
Here are a few "before" pictures - remember that a lot of the engine compartment forward of the strut towers was already cleaned - things were really a LOT more nasty than they appear here:






Just like the PVC in the wheel wells can hide a massive amount of rust, the sound dampening mat on the firewall can do the same - so off it comes.




Hurray! No rust!

The "off it comes" seems like it was an easy task, and frankly it was, once I'd removed everything from the firewall that was in the way, which includes, but is not limited to the following:

  • Fuse box (this comes with a special prayer that I can get it reinstalled and all the wires hooked back to their proper positions when the time comes)

  • HVAC low and high pressure lines. This required first the removal of the driver's seat, which typically had frozen height-adjustment slides which are required to be free-moving to gain access to the rear screws, then about 4 or 5 trips in and out from under the dash to get the right size wrenches.

  • Vacuum line grommet adjacent to the fuse box - easy.

  • Hood release cable - easy.

  • Heater control valve - this would have been easy if the idiot that installed (or likely replaced, given the age of the car) the hose that's inside the cowl connecting the outlet of the valve to the inlet of the core would have put the band clamp on the valve oriented such that it didn't require removal of the wiper motor...

  • Wiper motor - reason noted above. Turns out this was a good idea, as the grommet for the power cable had perished and there was evidence of water incursion (small amount) in that area under the dash. This also took a couple of trips in and out of the dash.

  • Hose for heater outlet on passenger side - easy.

  • Windshield washer nozzles. I marvel at MB's ingenuity. My modern W220 and predecessor W140 cars have electrically heated washer nozzles. The W116 engineers solved the problem of freezing nozzles by wrapping the pipe that starts in the engine compartment and terminates at a swaged end to form the nozzle around the heater core inlet and outlet hoses.

  • Oil pressure line - easy.

  • Suspension control line - easy.



Once all this was done, a little careful pulling and prodding with a putty knife released the mat without a single tear. I'll re-attach it later using the same adhesive used to put the hood liner in place.

Lots of scrubbing and washing reveal a more-or-less clean engine bay:






This a view down into the area where the front level control valve mounts - nice and clean:


The drivers side shows the damage that occurs with leaking master cylinders, the subsequent removal of paint and the rust that follows. All of this is surface rust. The wetness is fresh water after wash-down of the "Purple Stuff":


I'd like to have removed the suspension lines and the rear brake line from the car, but that proved impossible.

The rear brake line is a single unit that terminates at a T in the rear of the car. I can't get the nut on the line attached to the T to break loose, even with line wrenches. It's smack up against the bottom of the body, so there's no way to get any heat in there to coax it free.

The rear suspension lines run between the rear subframe and the chassis. I do plan on removing the subframe to replace the mounts and clean it up, but not this minute.

Thanks for reading...

W. Brian Fogarty

'02 S55 AMG (W220)
'92 300SE (W140) - sold
'76 450SEL 6.9 Euro #1164 - parted & gone
'76 450SEL 6.9 Euro #521

"Bond reflected that good Americans were fine people, and most of them seemed to come from Texas..." Casino Royale, Chapter VII
Go to Top of Page

S class

South Africa
957 Posts

Posted - 11/01/2013 :  13:29:33  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
FANTASTIC Brian. Wish I was doing this on my #1670.



116.036
116.036
116.024
116.028
116.028
107.044
202.026




Go to Top of Page

bigblockbenz

USA
379 Posts

Posted - 11/02/2013 :  13:46:32  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Great resto thread Brian.
Go to Top of Page

wbrian63

USA
901 Posts

Posted - 11/06/2013 :  07:07:32  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
This week I'm working on pulling the undercoating off of the passenger (RHS) inner fender. This is the fender that had all of the oily mess when I started working on the car.

Surprisingly, or maybe not so, several areas of PVC that were really oil soaked to begin with had completely delaminated from the metal and just peeled off leaving pristeen primer paint below.

Or maybe there was a bonding issue from the factory?

I'm about 75% done with removing the PVC coating. I'm being more fastidious about getting as much PVC off as possible. Learning from the driver's side fender tells me that less PVC means the scouring pads last longer and work better - the PVC tends to gum up the works.

W. Brian Fogarty

'02 S55 AMG (W220)
'92 300SE (W140) - sold
'76 450SEL 6.9 Euro #1164 - parted & gone
'76 450SEL 6.9 Euro #521

"Bond reflected that good Americans were fine people, and most of them seemed to come from Texas..." Casino Royale, Chapter VII
Go to Top of Page

tylerh860

30 Posts

Posted - 11/14/2013 :  13:33:37  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I've been waiting to see this thread for years. Really looking forward to the progress. Happy to know I found the perfect home for this car.



85 500SL Euro, 85 300D, 04 E500 Wagon
Go to Top of Page

alabbasi

USA
2876 Posts

Posted - 11/14/2013 :  13:35:27  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Brian

Are you planning to go back to the original color?

Thanks

Al

With best regards

Al


Go to Top of Page

wbrian63

USA
901 Posts

Posted - 11/14/2013 :  13:41:53  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by alabbasi

Brian

Are you planning to go back to the original color?

Thanks

Al

With best regards

Al





Yep - Cypress Green it will be.

W. Brian Fogarty

'02 S55 AMG (W220)
'92 300SE (W140) - sold
'76 450SEL 6.9 Euro #1164 - parted & gone
'76 450SEL 6.9 Euro #521

"Bond reflected that good Americans were fine people, and most of them seemed to come from Texas..." Casino Royale, Chapter VII
Go to Top of Page

wbrian63

USA
901 Posts

Posted - 11/14/2013 :  13:47:05  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by tylerh860

I've been waiting to see this thread for years. Really looking forward to the progress. Happy to know I found the perfect home for this car.

85 500SL Euro, 85 300D, 04 E500 Wagon


Thanks for the nod, Tyler. I've been waiting far too long to get started, but I've accumulated a LOT of parts to get the job done.

I'll post regular updates - keep reading.

Regards

W. Brian Fogarty

'02 S55 AMG (W220)
'92 300SE (W140) - sold
'76 450SEL 6.9 Euro #1164 - parted & gone
'76 450SEL 6.9 Euro #521

"Bond reflected that good Americans were fine people, and most of them seemed to come from Texas..." Casino Royale, Chapter VII
Go to Top of Page

wbrian63

USA
901 Posts

Posted - 11/26/2013 :  07:33:15  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Reading President Dr. Love's column in the recently-received Lode Star, I see with shock and awe that I have been mentioned... I hope my efforts will be worth the cost of the typesetting.

More updates - right-hand inner fender has been scraped of all undercoating:













These pictures don't show the completed work. It's done and cleaned to bare metal.

Rust was similar to what was discovered on the driver's side.

I'm getting better at this - the whole process was about 10 hours work...

W. Brian Fogarty

'02 S55 AMG (W220)
'92 300SE (W140) - sold
'76 450SEL 6.9 Euro #1164 - parted & gone
'76 450SEL 6.9 Euro #521

"Bond reflected that good Americans were fine people, and most of them seemed to come from Texas..." Casino Royale, Chapter VII

Edited by - wbrian63 on 03/10/2015 08:22:48
Go to Top of Page

wbrian63

USA
901 Posts

Posted - 11/26/2013 :  09:03:55  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I've started work on the sills. This will be slow and fiddly work, but is absolutely required, at least for this car.

To do a full replacement, you need 8 parts. Two front end caps (left & right), two sills (left & right) and 4 washers that are used to connect the sills to the jacking points.

End caps:






Washers - somehow I've lost one... :(



Sills:









The sills are attached with spot welds to the A-pillar, B-pillar and rear quarter panel of the car, along the seam where the inner floor pans meet with the sills at the bottom of the front and rear door frames, at the bottom of the car as well along the main body seam from front to back. "In theory" once all of the spot welds are removed, the sills should just "drop out" - we shall see...

I also find a weld line at the front of the A-pillar that will need to be removed:



Here you can see one of the many spot welds that will have to be dealt with:



There are several ways to remove spot welds. One method involves drilling through the weld with an appropriate sized bit, but that means two holes to deal with during reassembly.

I purchased a rotary spot weld cutter manufactured by Blair Equipment - part # 13224:



I paid about $US18 for it from McMaster Carr. There are other cheaper sources for a few $ less.

The pin in the center of the cutter is hardened and spring loaded with a very stiff spring. You start the cutting process by using a sharp cold punch to mark the center of the spot weld:



The instructions say no more than 500rpm, and to go slowly until the cutter has a chance to create a groove in the outer layer.

Here's the result of removing what was left of the front cover:



You can see the small circles in the underlying metal. There was very little left of the front cover to remove. The tin worms had made a feast of the metal.

The metal that was the weld and the outer layer of metal will have to be ground down to flat before the replacement cover can be installed (and a lot of other rebuilding must obviously occur...)

The bane of this tool is the unknown you meet as the cutter passes thorugh the inner layer of metal. If there's a sharp edge or crease, damage can occur to the cutter. If the cutter skips away from the weld, the teeth can get damaged. I failed to notice that one of the teeth on the cutter was damaged from cutting against the pocked substrate on the front cover, and while attempting to drill out the example weld shown above, I cleaned all the rest of the teeth off the cutter:



This is the damage that I didn't notice:



The cutters are reversable, so a quick clamp in a vise and a pair of locking pliers had me back in business.

Learning that the cutters are fragile (they are hardened like a drill bit, so take the same care), I purchased some replacements - 3 cutters (6 sets of teeth), Blair part # 13214 can be had for about $US9 for the set.

I also purchased some lubricant that Blair recommends - part #11750 - we'll see how that turns out.

In order to get at all of the welds on the top of the sill, you need to remove the front and rear doors. I'll say no more on that subject other than I built a little cradle to help me do this by myself. It bolts to a floor jack and makes the removal process practically painless (ignoring the scratched nuckles one gets while working on door internals...)






You also have to remove the sill covers, front and rear. Take your time as to not break these old and fragile parts.

Once all of the obstacles are removed, drilling can commence.

This is the front of the driver's door:



Rear of driver's door at B-pillar:



B-pillar vertical welds - this is almost completely obscured with the rear door installed:



Front of rear door opening at B-pillar:



Rear door at rear quarter panel:


The sill is also welded to the rear quarter somewhere near where the blue meets the green in the above picture.

In the above photo you can also see the drilled spots on the vertical seam where the sill meets the inner section of the chassis in the cabin. There are about 15 of these welds in each door frame, and they're hard to get at. They're positioned right where the sill transitions from vertical to horizontal.

If you put the punch mark in the center of the spot weld, the cutter meets the outer layer at the bottom before it hits the top, because of the curve of the bend. This makes the cutter want to jump.

It's also difficult to get a good angle on the cutter because the tool is short and the chuck of the drill is in the way.

By moving the punch mark up about 1/8" to near the top of the weld, you can get a more square approach, and enough of the weld is still removed to allow the panels to part.

Knowing when you're deep enough is easiest when there's rust behind the outer panel - you'll see rust in the shavings when you penetrate. When there's no rust, you can usually "feel" when you've punched through.

I've not started on the bottom spot welds. They're going to be a complete PITA to get at - the seam has more than it's share of damage from curbs and careless jacking.

When I started looking at what it's going to take to separate the sill from the chassis down there, I came up with a one-word answer:

Rotisserie....

More to come on this in the next few days...

W. Brian Fogarty

'02 S55 AMG (W220)
'92 300SE (W140) - sold
'76 450SEL 6.9 Euro #1164 - parted & gone
'76 450SEL 6.9 Euro #521

"Bond reflected that good Americans were fine people, and most of them seemed to come from Texas..." Casino Royale, Chapter VII
Go to Top of Page

bigblockbenz

USA
379 Posts

Posted - 11/26/2013 :  11:40:05  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Great thread. ...2 thumbs up.
Go to Top of Page

etmerritt33

USA
1415 Posts

Posted - 11/26/2013 :  12:29:18  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Brian,

Somewhere in this thread there was a discussion about rust in some of the main seams and the risk of trying to repair with welding? Thought this link on MercedesSource.com might be of interest.

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=671609232863844&set=a.145355725489200.21002.120175811340525&type=1&permPage=1

He sells an epoxy paint that he feels is superior to POR15 if you are not aware you may want to consider.

Also, there is a link on the W116.org site to a beautiful 77 6.9 restoration that was done in Brazil. I copied all the pics and here is a link. If is the nicest and most thorough I have seen to date. Same exterior color you are going to repaint with I think?

http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k238/etmerritt33/Brazil-Joe-Awesome%206_9%20resto/122-2299_IMG_zps3177cdd1.jpg
Go to Top of Page

arcijack

USA
476 Posts

Posted - 11/26/2013 :  18:55:51  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
the product is called miracle paint, Bill Hirsch product, i have used it on my 6.9 and this stuff dries harder than steel. also i replaced the rockers panels on my 6.9 euro and nearly tore the car apart trying to get the old ones off, but your post gives me the encouragement to keep plugging along. keep up the superior work, Also miracle paint can be ordered directly from Bill Hirsch, its cheaper that way,
Go to Top of Page

benz_head

USA
452 Posts

Posted - 11/27/2013 :  09:57:18  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Fearless!

How do you make sure that you retain the car's "square" when you put it back together? I would think that removing rockers on a rotisserie would put the car out of whack with respect to plumb.

benz_head
#1349
Go to Top of Page

wbrian63

USA
901 Posts

Posted - 11/27/2013 :  11:18:08  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
The sills are not structural.

Given the massive amount of internal rust that are present in mine, if they were structural, the car would have already sagged in on itself...

W. Brian Fogarty

'02 S55 AMG (W220)
'92 300SE (W140) - sold
'76 450SEL 6.9 Euro #1164 - parted & gone
'76 450SEL 6.9 Euro #521

"Bond reflected that good Americans were fine people, and most of them seemed to come from Texas..." Casino Royale, Chapter VII
Go to Top of Page
Page: of 12 Previous Topic Topic Next Topic  
Previous Page | Next Page
 New Topic  Reply to Topic
 Printer Friendly
Jump To:
M-100 Message Board © 2002-2015 International M-100 Group, Inc. Go To Top Of Page
This page was generated in 0.59 seconds. Powered By: Snitz Forums 2000 Version 3.4.06