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 6.9 #521 Restoration
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wbrian63

USA
900 Posts

Posted - 08/14/2013 :  23:24:29  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
The process has begun. I'll attempt to record the progress as I move from front to back on the car.

The first step is rebuilding the front suspension. Everything was in really sad shape once I got the car up onto blocks and the tires removed - both sides had the brake pad wear sensors in tatters.


The sheathing on the wear sensor wires had long since perished:


The passenger fenderwell was particularly nasty:








The inner bushings on the upper control arms were almost non-existent:


I removed the struts - this was easy, no pressure in the system after sitting on blocks for several weeks.

There were three areas of difficulty -

I fought with the driver's side brake line where the flex hose attaches to the rigid line. The ham-fisted mechanic that replaced these hoses tightened the connection to the point where no amount of persuasion would break the connection. Even a set of locking pliers refused to release the connection. I spent over 2 hours trying to get the line to break loose from the hose. Finally resorted to a pair of wire cutters and cut both the hose and the line...

The second was disconnecting the steering knuckle from the lower ball joint. I have a tool that presses up on the control arm and down on the end of the ball joint where the nut attaches. I tightened this for all I could and nothing would give. Finally resorted to using a pneumatic impact hammer with a blunted chisel to hammer on the finger of the tool where it presses on the ball joint stud.

The final area was the lower control arms where they attach to the cross member behind the engine. The bolts were rusted solid in the bushings.

Removed the lower control arms as a unit with the transverse member, then used a pneumatic cutoff grinder to cut through the bolts on the head side of the bushing. With the nut removed and because the transverse member is slotted to allow for suspension adjustment during an alignment, I was able to pivot the control arm out of the cross member.

The rear bushings were shot - here's a picture of one before I removed it from the cross member:


The front bushings appeared to be in good condition, but I removed them anyway, since I had a complete repair kit:


Removing the upper control arms involved detaching the outer bushing carrier from the torsion bar, as there was no way to remove the bolt that goes thru the control arm and bushings and attaches to the torsion bar. Once the were on the bench, the state of failure was obvious:



The bushings in the transverse member are cactus as well:




Started cleaning up the passenger side fenderwell. When I went to remove the oil tank, I discovered that the same monkey that worked on the brake lines also worked on the hoses to the oil tank. I could only get the smaller of the 3 busted loose. Resorted to cutting the other two lines - I have a new set of hoses anyway.

Discovered that there's a cover missing up by the torsion bar. It's present on the driver's side. Thank goodness this is so, because the parts were impossible to find in EPC. The driver's side part had the part # cast into the plastic. They appear in the section with parts for the center console...




Cleaning with a mixture of Simple Green and Purple Stuff resulted in a fairly good outcome:






Did discover some rust in the typical spot. Have to replace the rocker panels anyway and I'll fix this mess then:


These rust spots are actually solid when probed with a punch:


I think this is a drain hole in the upper control arm recess - at least I hope it is:




I've decided to pull the fenders off the car and do a proper job. While I was waiting for the heat gun I ordered to arrive, I started cleaning up the parts in preparation for powder coating:
Lower Control Arm - before:




Lower Control Arm - after:




Brake shield - before:




Brake shield - after:


Sadly, the brake shield shows noticeable pitting - I think too many years sitting the shed is the cause. No rust-through, but they won't look as nice after powder coating as if they'd been un-pitted.
I'll see if I have versions of this part from #1164 that are in better shape.

That's all for now ---

W. Brian Fogarty

'02 S55 AMG (W220)
'92 300SE (W140) - sold
'76 450SEL 6.9 Euro #1164 - parted & gone
'76 450SEL 6.9 Euro #521

"Bond reflected that good Americans were fine people, and most of them seemed to come from Texas..." Casino Royale, Chapter VII

Art Love

Australia
6227 Posts

Posted - 08/15/2013 :  01:20:56  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Brian,

Thanks for the pictures. This project would make a good article for the Lode Star. We are chronically short of good 6.9 material for the magazine. Certainly looks like a previous owner neglected routine maintenance issues at a minimum.

Art
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oversize

Australia
261 Posts

Posted - 08/15/2013 :  06:54:37  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
WOW you've done a great job so far! Can you describe the process of cleaning those parts and the inner guards? The cleaned suspension bits look like they've been media blasted. Any links to the products used?

Those bushes were in real bad shape.

Mark


Last of the steel Mercedes

2001 Ford AU Fairmont Ghia 5L (Deep Blue)
1980 450SEL #101122 (Green Lantern)
1979 6.9 #6301 (Blue Flame)
1979 6.9 #5541 (Red Bull)
1979 6.9 #5318 (Silver Arrow)
1979 6.9 #5298 (Man o War)
1978 6.9 #4248 (Skye Blue)
1979 6.9 #3686 (Moby Dick)
1975 450SEL #28414 (Gold Nugget)
1957 Buick Roadmaster 73A (Titanic)
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oversize

Australia
261 Posts

Posted - 08/15/2013 :  06:57:37  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Is this the same stuff?

http://australia.simplegreen.com/

Mark


Last of the steel Mercedes

2001 Ford AU Fairmont Ghia 5L (Deep Blue)
1980 450SEL #101122 (Green Lantern)
1979 6.9 #6301 (Blue Flame)
1979 6.9 #5541 (Red Bull)
1979 6.9 #5318 (Silver Arrow)
1979 6.9 #5298 (Man o War)
1978 6.9 #4248 (Skye Blue)
1979 6.9 #3686 (Moby Dick)
1975 450SEL #28414 (Gold Nugget)
1957 Buick Roadmaster 73A (Titanic)
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oversize

Australia
261 Posts

Posted - 08/15/2013 :  06:59:34  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
What about this?

http://www.thepurplestuff.com/

Mark


Last of the steel Mercedes

2001 Ford AU Fairmont Ghia 5L (Deep Blue)
1980 450SEL #101122 (Green Lantern)
1979 6.9 #6301 (Blue Flame)
1979 6.9 #5541 (Red Bull)
1979 6.9 #5318 (Silver Arrow)
1979 6.9 #5298 (Man o War)
1978 6.9 #4248 (Skye Blue)
1979 6.9 #3686 (Moby Dick)
1975 450SEL #28414 (Gold Nugget)
1957 Buick Roadmaster 73A (Titanic)
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wbrian63

USA
900 Posts

Posted - 08/15/2013 :  08:22:41  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by oversize

WOW you've done a great job so far! Can you describe the process of cleaning those parts and the inner guards? The cleaned suspension bits look like they've been media blasted. Any links to the products used?

Those bushes were in real bad shape.

Mark




The inner guards were just manual elbow grease with Simple Green - full strength, and Zep Purple Cleaner - full strength. Zep works better than Simple Green, at the cost of the paint.

First I scraped all of the mud and loose stuff off using a variety of tools that were non-damaging. I have a piece of 1/2" thick HDPE about 1" wide and 12" long from some project years ago. I cut a sharp angle on the end with my chop saw, and rounded the edges of the opposite end to make it easier on my hands. That does a good job of scraping without scratching things up. Also a 1/4" thick x 3/4" wide piece of wood fashioned to a point along the wide edge creates a nice narrow scraper for nooks and crannies.

Once all the nastyness was removed - about 1/2 gallon by volume..., I started at the bottom in small sections with the cleaners. Wet the surface and scrub with a small brush with stiff plastic bristles. I bought a bunch of these from Harbor Freight on the cheap. I only use the nylon bristle brush. The brass and steel I reserve for other work.

http://www.harborfreight.com/3-piece-detail-brush-set-69638.html

Use them gently and when they get too worn out - toss them and grab another.

I also purchased a pressurized spray bottle from Northern Tools - holds 2 gallons of water and has a wand sprayer that can be adjusted from fine spray to strong stream.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200596645_200596645

I start at the bottom as a matter of principal. I'm not working in the driveway, I'm in my shop which has an elevated wood floor, so I need to control where the water goes. When you start at the top, the rinse water runs along the rough surface created by the remaining dirt & grime and goes all over the place. When you start at the bottom, the path of the water is more predictable.

Sounds like a good reason, huh?

The cleaners work best when they're not diluted, so I keep a bunch of rags around to periodically dry the surface where I might need a 2nd or 3rd application of cleaner. The cleaners are so effective and the fenders so dirty that you quickly can't see what you're actually cleaning from the slurry that builds up and obscures.

As for the cleaned suspension and brake parts, I start out in my parts washer, which I got several years ago from Harbor Freight - I bought one like this:
http://www.harborfreight.com/garage-shop/parts-washers/20-gallon-parts-washer-with-general-purpose-pump-7340.html

I've rebuilt it to use a filter for the fluid and use an external solvent-rated pump. I use Kerosene for the cleaner. I'll post up some pictures of the washer setup later.

After the grease and grime has been removed, it's off to the media blast cabinet, which I built using a kit I purchased from TP Tools:
http://www.tptools.com/Skat-Blast-Master-Build-Your-Own-Foot-Pedal-Cabinet-Kit-45-X-Large-Lens,7196.html?b=d*8042

I use glass bead - it is slower than other media like aluminum oxide, but I don't have to worry about damaging the surface of the items being cleaned.

I'll post up information on the creation of the media blast cabinet as well.

W. Brian Fogarty

'02 S55 AMG (W220)
'92 300SE (W140) - sold
'76 450SEL 6.9 Euro #1164 - parted & gone
'76 450SEL 6.9 Euro #521

"Bond reflected that good Americans were fine people, and most of them seemed to come from Texas..." Casino Royale, Chapter VII
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wbrian63

USA
900 Posts

Posted - 08/15/2013 :  08:23:43  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by oversize

Is this the same stuff?

http://australia.simplegreen.com/

Mark




That's the stuff.

W. Brian Fogarty

'02 S55 AMG (W220)
'92 300SE (W140) - sold
'76 450SEL 6.9 Euro #1164 - parted & gone
'76 450SEL 6.9 Euro #521

"Bond reflected that good Americans were fine people, and most of them seemed to come from Texas..." Casino Royale, Chapter VII
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wbrian63

USA
900 Posts

Posted - 08/15/2013 :  08:26:34  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by oversize

What about this?

http://www.thepurplestuff.com/

Mark




Nope - here's what I bought:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/ZEP-1-gal-Industrial-Purple-Degreaser-ZU0856128/100047759

W. Brian Fogarty

'02 S55 AMG (W220)
'92 300SE (W140) - sold
'76 450SEL 6.9 Euro #1164 - parted & gone
'76 450SEL 6.9 Euro #521

"Bond reflected that good Americans were fine people, and most of them seemed to come from Texas..." Casino Royale, Chapter VII
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wbrian63

USA
900 Posts

Posted - 08/15/2013 :  08:35:02  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Art Love

Brian,

Thanks for the pictures. This project would make a good article for the Lode Star. We are chronically short of good 6.9 material for the magazine. Certainly looks like a previous owner neglected routine maintenance issues at a minimum.

Art



I have plans to contact our esteemed editor to do a series on this restoration process.

Routine maintenance (RM) seems to be a dirty word in some circles. What results from lack of RM is dirt and grime.

The amount of crud that had built up under the passenger fender I think was attributable to leaking sump hoses. They'd drip oil while the car was in motion, which would be picked up and slung all under the fender.

Much of what you see in the pictures was a very loose conglomeration of oil, sand and dirt. I think the car saw a lot of dirt roads at some point in its life.

The space between the fenders is equally dirty, just not as much dirt buildup. The suspension pump was dripping when I got the car. The oil would run down the body of the pump from where it was escaping at the connection point for the high pressure hose and drop onto the power steering pulley to be slung all across the engine compartment. There were literally puddles of oil under the battery and in the recesses below the suspension oil tank.

The front main seal is leaking as well, so the underneath of the motor is a real mess. I can hardly wait to start on that part of the project (rolls eyes).

W. Brian Fogarty

'02 S55 AMG (W220)
'92 300SE (W140) - sold
'76 450SEL 6.9 Euro #1164 - parted & gone
'76 450SEL 6.9 Euro #521

"Bond reflected that good Americans were fine people, and most of them seemed to come from Texas..." Casino Royale, Chapter VII
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wbrian63

USA
900 Posts

Posted - 08/15/2013 :  22:03:08  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Here are some pictures, as promised, of the Parts Washer I'm using.

For a cleaning fluid, I use Kerosene. Seems to work fine, and if I keep the lid on the washer closed when not in use, I'm not even aware that there's a parts washer in the room, odor-wise.

I modified the parts washer to externalize the pump, and even found a solvent-compatible pump (Little Giant Model 518550 PE-2YSA) on Amazon.Com for a reasonable sum of money.



The pump requires a sealed connection where the wires enter, so I took a 1/2" pipe and welded it to a cradle that stands up in a 5 gallon bucket. This elevates the pump off the floor of the bucket.



I added a setup to attach a large oil filter to the output of the pump. This is an attempt to keep the cleaning fluid clean - not sure if this is working for or against me. The system worked like crazy when I first turned it on. I cleaned some really nasty parts and then the flow dropped off dramatically, so I changed the filter, thinking it was clogged. The flow came back up some, but tapered again very quickly. I discovered that the lid on the solvent bucket was being sucked in as the level in the bucket drops if the outlet from the tub gets clogged, which it does regularly. I need to change the outlet from a 3/8" fitting to a 3/4" and add a screen of some sort.



And I adapted the outlet of the pump to allow for either a brush or a nozzle.


W. Brian Fogarty

'02 S55 AMG (W220)
'92 300SE (W140) - sold
'76 450SEL 6.9 Euro #1164 - parted & gone
'76 450SEL 6.9 Euro #521

"Bond reflected that good Americans were fine people, and most of them seemed to come from Texas..." Casino Royale, Chapter VII
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wbrian63

USA
900 Posts

Posted - 08/15/2013 :  22:35:19  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
The sand blaster is a unit of my own construction, using a parts kit from TP tools. The floor of the unit is 24" deep x 48" wide. The arm holes are the right distance off the floor such that I don't have to stoop down at all to use the unit.

It took 2 sheets of 3/4" MDF to build the cabinet. The top was easy, the funnel was a Pain In The Ass. The instructions from TP Tools give you the dimensions required to build a funnel for a 30" wide (if I recall) unit. It took quite a bit of fiddling to adjust the dimensions to make the funnel wider. In addition, the TP Tools instructions assume that you'll use caulk to fix all the inconsistencies in the joints.

I used caulk, but only to provide a radius in the corners - the joints on all aspects of this cabinet don't need caulk to seal tight.

The frame for the cabinet is my own design, and creates a cradle that the funnel sits in. A few bolts keep the funnel in the right place, and the top sits on the funnel. I do have a piece of 1/4" thick foam weather stripping between the top and the funnel. There's nothing other than gravity holding the top in place - it weighs about 100#, so it's not going anywhere.



For lighting, I added two 150w halogen spots in the back corners, plus a 36" long 2-bulb florescent light on top. A gasketed piece of lens designed for a suspended ceiling florescent light keeps the blasting media and dust from fouling the light.

Here's a view from the outside with the main light on:


And with the halogens going:


Interior views of same scenes:




As I started using the cabinet, I discovered that there was too much of a shadow in the front of the part, so I found 3 LED puck lights from SuperBrightLEDs.com - part # SSM-x3x



This adds some needed light between and adjacent to my hands. The pucks are rated for exterior exposure, and the wires are housed in the copper tube so they're safe from the harsh environment:


I painted the interior with gloss white paint, and the exterior with the same battleship grey that coats the floors in the shop, with a few blue accents thrown in.
I can see after just a little use that I'm going to have to get a piece of sheet metal to protect the back from the harsh effects of the glass media.

To bring air to the blasting gun, I decided to mount a regulator on board, with a 1/4" pipe welded to the frame to accept the air inlet:


I also wanted a dust-off air gun inside the cabinet, so I added a tee to the back of the inlet, the dust-off gun air supply doesn't flow through the regulator.


A 1/2 copper pipe passes the air across the back of the cabinet:

and to the front where a short piece of 3/8" air hose passes the air to a custom bulkhead fitting:




This nothing more than a 1/2" fender washer, drilled to accept a short section of 3/8" iron pipe which is tack-welded to the washer. A similar setup passes the air into the cabinet from the foot pedal to the gun.

To control dust inside the cabinet, I added a slide valve to attach my dust collector system.


The inlet is at the opposite side of the cabinet:


If I open the valve fully, the gloves inflate so much that they're difficult to move, so 1/2-way open is good enough.

The dust collector is the same unit I used for my wood-working equipment. It's a 3hp cyclonic unit with a high efficiency pleated air filter on the outlet of the blower, the airflow from which is ducted outside the workspace.

Since the cabinet is on wheels, I wanted to have a place to hold the foot pedal, so I added a hook on the front and drilled a hole in the top of the pedal.


After using the cabinet for a while, I grew frustrated as the foot pedal would slide around too easily. A 1/2" rare earth magnet set into the floor at the right place keeps the pedal in the proper position:


I put two such magnets - one for the pedal in position for right-foot operation, the other in a position for left-foot operation.

The door has a full gasket seal, and two toggle latches keep it securely shut. Truthfully, I don't really need either of these - with the dust collector on, the door stays shut all by itself.
I did make a mistake in my choice of gasket material. Once closed and dogged down, if left for even a few moments, the door sticks to the gasket material and is hard to open. So far, no gasket material has transferred to the door, but I think a different sort of foam, maybe something open-celled would work better. I'll have to do some experimenting in this area.


Power comes in at the left rear of the cabinet. The upper switch controls the main florescent light and the LED pucks. The bottom switch turns on the halogens.


So far, the only complaint I've got is how quickly the protective mylar sheet on the inside of the window has gotten fogged from the flying media. I think I'm going to devise a setup to allow me to add regular window glass easily. Then I'll buy a bunch of pieces and swap them out as they get obscured. The glass will last far longer than the mylar - I'll just have to devise a good seal to keep the media from getting between the two pieces of glass, and a frame to make it easy to exchange the glass as needed.

I've not had any issues with media flow, but I do plan to construct a pressure feed pot to make the media delivery more consistent.


W. Brian Fogarty

'02 S55 AMG (W220)
'92 300SE (W140) - sold
'76 450SEL 6.9 Euro #1164 - parted & gone
'76 450SEL 6.9 Euro #521

"Bond reflected that good Americans were fine people, and most of them seemed to come from Texas..." Casino Royale, Chapter VII

Edited by - wbrian63 on 08/16/2013 06:19:27
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wbrian63

USA
900 Posts

Posted - 08/25/2013 :  01:01:34  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
In a separate thread, I asked about inner fender colors, and S Class indicated that the only proper way to restore a 6.9 was to properly restore it - not to cut corners.

The more I thought about it, I realized he was right - I was just hoping I could avoid a bunch of really nasty work...

So I began the task of pulling the front fenders...

First task - the bumpers, headlamps and valance(s) under the front bumper have to come off:






Then you need to buy, make and utilize some tools to remove the fenders. The first is a heat gun capable of generating 600C temps (about 1100f) - Amazon.com to the rescue for about $100.00.




A bent putty knife is helpful to release the seal that binds the fender to the fender well at the top:


A bottle jack and a brace puts gentle upward pressure on the fender to help ease it off the car:


The service manual says to heat the fender at the point where the bolts attach, then use a sharp knife to cut the PVC liner from inside the fender at the top where the fender and inner fender meet. While it might seem a good idea to heat the fender from the inside, this won't work well, as the PVC acts as a very good insulator.

I tried the passenger fender first, and a little over-zealous prying with a wide bar left me with some scars that will have to be repaired:




This dent is in the top edge of the fender and was caused by pulling to vigorously before all of the PVC had been cut free.


Once the fender is free of the car, the real picture can be seen. Very small surface rust on the inside of the fender:








This rust is not as bad as it appears, it should clean to bare metal and require no additional work.


I was more patient with the left side fender and no dents were created. I did have to drill/grind out one of the screws that attaches the fender to the body behind the trim at the bottom of the fender.

Rust not as extensive on this side, but holes are still there to be repaired:


I thought it would be a good idea to remove as much of the PVC with a combination of a sharpened putty knife and a small sharp chisel. What you see here is a small part of what must be done, and it took about 3 hours to get to this point. 99% of the rust seen in these pictures is surface only, but almost all of it was invisible under the PVC - as good a reason as I can find for following Ryan's (S Class) suggestion.






I ordered some quick-change rust removal pads that fit in my 4-1/2" angle grinder from Amazon.Com - about $12.50.



It requires an adapter to fit the grinder, but allows for quick swapping between discs - about $11.50


With the disc mounted in the grinder, this is the result after about 10 minutes work:







I need to get some smaller versions of these strippers to get into the nooks and crannies. I've yet to figure out how I'm going to deal with the cup that receives the strut - it has nooks and crannies behind it that will be impossible to reach fully.

That's all for now - my shoulders and back are still angry with me...

Regards

W. Brian Fogarty

'02 S55 AMG (W220)
'92 300SE (W140) - sold
'76 450SEL 6.9 Euro #1164 - parted & gone
'76 450SEL 6.9 Euro #521

"Bond reflected that good Americans were fine people, and most of them seemed to come from Texas..." Casino Royale, Chapter VII
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Ron B

Australia
11619 Posts

Posted - 08/25/2013 :  04:57:18  Show Profile  Visit Ron B's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Everything looks good. The usual wear and no rust up around the sway bar mounts. I have seen cars where this has dissapeared completely
Have you ever had a jolt from static electricity build up in your blast cabinet? Tghe one at work is a shocker...ha ha . it has a cabintet built from plexiglass and operators get a belt every now and then. We also have a pretty effective air dust seperator which uses a big shop vac. It keeps the air clean so the parts being blasted can be seen .
A lot of the oil under a 6.9 is the normal result of the Struts leakdown system of lubrication .

quote:
12-14-2004, 11:49 PM #8
Tom Hanson
MBCA Member

What the heck, try to stuff a MB 6.9 liter V8 in it. What a machine that would be..
__________________
Tom Hanson
Orange County Section
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wbrian63

USA
900 Posts

Posted - 08/26/2013 :  08:08:56  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks for the reply, Ron. Glad to see that what I've got is typical and not earth-shattering.

I've yet to get zapped by the blast cabinet. Houston has very high relative humidity (avg 60%), so static discharge isn't something we encounter too often.

That being said, there are many metal penetrations to the interior of the cabinet. All are grounded to the central leg of the electrical circuit that feeds the lights, so hopefully I won't get a zap.

I've been on the wrong end of things like that before. Years ago, I was using a shop vacuum to dust the walls in the finishing room at my old workshop. A lot of overspray had accumulated on the walls and I needed it clean for a cabinet finishing effort. Everything was going just fine - I did notice the hair on my arms standing on end, just before I strayed too close to an exposed metal conduit on the wall. Static discharge out through my elbow to the conduit left my arm and elbow aching for several hours thereafter. Not something I care to repeat.

Since all of this stuff is located in my workshop, which was primarily designed and out-fitted as a woodworking facility, I have a large cyclonic dust collector. I've attached the blasting cabinet to the DC, and it does a fine job of keeping the air clear. In fact, I have to reduce the flow out of the cabinet via a blast gate, else the gloves inflate to a point where they're difficult to use...

I've checked the dust bin on the collector recently, and there is some media there, but not so much as to be objectionable. Better that the air in the cabinet stay clear.

Most of what I've blasted thus far will have to be re-done when I'm ready to powder coat - the bare metal surfaces will flash rust if left for very long in that same Houston humidity that guards against static discharge. I'll swap the media in the cabinet for some brand new stuff before the final blasting exercise, just to get a good cleaning with no risk of redepositing goop that may exist down in the media from dirty parts before.

Regards

W. Brian Fogarty

'02 S55 AMG (W220)
'92 300SE (W140) - sold
'76 450SEL 6.9 Euro #1164 - parted & gone
'76 450SEL 6.9 Euro #521

"Bond reflected that good Americans were fine people, and most of them seemed to come from Texas..." Casino Royale, Chapter VII
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benz_head

USA
449 Posts

Posted - 08/26/2013 :  16:01:24  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Excellent work, Brian, thanks for posting. This kind of thing is very good for my motivation.

benz_head
#1349
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etmerritt33

USA
1415 Posts

Posted - 08/28/2013 :  07:59:38  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
That cleaning pad is unreal!!! I'll try those on my 280E rocker rust that I am going to tackle shortly. The results are amazing as getting to that point is one of the most difficult tasks. These projects are inspirational for many of us.
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