M-100 Message Board
M-100 Message Board
Home | Profile | Register | Active Topics | Members | Search | FAQ
Username:
Password:
Save Password
Forgot your Password?

 All Forums
 M-100 Message Forum
 6.3
 My 1971 300SEL 6.3
 New Topic  Reply to Topic
 Printer Friendly
Previous Page | Next Page
Author Previous Topic Topic Next Topic
Page: of 16

karra

Finland
868 Posts

Posted - 08/27/2011 :  14:29:59  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Art Love

There is another recent thread on ATF. Basically, you need a Dexron III equivalent transmission oil. I would suggest you use a 15W50 oil. Others may have alternate suggestions.
Art

Wasn't it Dexron II ? Here is the thread: http://www.m-100.cc/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=6410

Kari Pykäläinen

1965 220 SE Coupé
1971 6.3 #5581
1987 560 SEC
1993 E420
1995 Tahoe 350cid
1982 Stingray SV175 boat
Go to Top of Page

james lawson

USA
1340 Posts

Posted - 08/27/2011 :  15:32:36  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Art, Good to know. It was how I read Neil's brief response.
Thanks for the clarification. Now, I have to get up the gumption to do it on mine.

jim
Go to Top of Page

EugeneGroysman

USA
120 Posts

Posted - 08/31/2011 :  00:34:32  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I am trying to fix brakes but what ever I do does not work.
I replaced master cylinder, booster, brake lines, calipers but still no good pressure.
Pedal still hits the floor no matter how many times I bleed all points one by one.
Please help.

1971 6.3
2011 S550 4matic
2011 ML350
1997 Porsche 993 C4S 'Kills bugs fast'.
Go to Top of Page

6.3Nut

USA
205 Posts

Posted - 08/31/2011 :  01:32:07  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I want to clean the grime buildup around the oil pan and the A/C compressor, can I use a steam cleaner or a regular pressure washer in the area? Just wanted to make sure it's a good idea, I would hate for the water entering the engine and "Washing" it away

Thanks!

There cars and then there are BABIES!
1969 Euro Model
10901812000931
Go to Top of Page

Art Love

Australia
6239 Posts

Posted - 08/31/2011 :  03:08:33  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Eugene,
You need to fill and bleed the new master cylinder. Fill it and pump it with its shaft off the car until there are no bubbles, then put it on the car. Be careful where you spill the fluid, it is lethal to paint. If you don't bleed it before it goes on the car, it can be next to impossible to get the air bubbles out of it by bleeding at the wheels.

There should be no problem using a pressure cleaner sensibly in the engine bay as long as you ensure the dip stick is secure and you don't aim it up the air intake. My tuppence worth anyway.
Art
Go to Top of Page

Craig Tucker

Australia
654 Posts

Posted - 08/31/2011 :  12:25:36  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Eugene,

If you have replaced most, if not all, of your brake parts; I would almost guarantee that the piston in the new master cylinder has bottomed out and did not return on it's internal spring. Hense the pedal going to the floor. It often happens with "new" master cylinders that have been sitting around FOR YEARS.

You can use a small amount of compressed air in the forward half of the master cylinder to "blow" back the piston to it's rest. ie: take off one of the two lines to the two front calipers, they are at the front of the master cylinder, and blow. Once you are convinced the master cyliner has "reset"; then I would suggest a full "gravity bleed" of the system. That is filling the reservior and opening all 4 bleed nipples with bleed lines attatched that are long enough to extend from beneeth the car to a point that is higher than the reservior. DO NOT TOUCH/PUMP THE BRAKE PEDAL....AND WAIT while continuously topping up the res. It could take an hour for the levels to become consistant and air bubbles to disapear. Once they are, best to leave it over-night. In the morning, all four bleed lines should show the same level and line up with the brake fluide level in the res. Tighten bleed nipples, remove lines and you're set. There should be no air in the system at all and your pedal should be hard as a rock. If not check that the pedal is actually conected to the booster........lol.

Hope this makes sense??

C.T.



1969 300SEL 6.3 (to be AMG 6.8 replica) #1268
1971 300SEL 6.3 #5713
1970 600 SWB #1692
1993 300E-24
1959 220SE Ponton #9500929
1983 Schuler 5.0lt Range Rover
Go to Top of Page

ctmaher

USA
678 Posts

Posted - 08/31/2011 :  14:56:38  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Just a thought, but make sure the calipers are not switched left to right. The bleeder screws need to be at the highest point on the caliper. If the bleeder is low, the caliper is on the wrong side and you will never get the air out. Don't ask how I know this.

Chris
Go to Top of Page

EugeneGroysman

USA
120 Posts

Posted - 09/03/2011 :  11:42:48  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks to All for your help!
I got brakes working!

I compared AC units from my 1971 and 1969 parts car. The units look the same but pulleys are not. Why is it so? Which one should I use?



My car doesn't have sunroof option but I have sunroof components available from my parts car. I would like to give it to somebody who can use it or trade it for parts I need.

1971 6.3
2011 S550 4matic
2011 ML350
1997 Porsche 993 C4S 'Kills bugs fast'.
Go to Top of Page

Ron B

Australia
11633 Posts

Posted - 09/03/2011 :  18:45:22  Show Profile  Visit Ron B's Homepage  Reply with Quote
What do the plates on the compressors say? if the compressor is the original for your car it should be date stamped close to your cars production date. The bigger clutch was to act as damper to quieten down the noisy York compressor. They are a reasonable unit but better ones are around today,especially the Sanden.

quote:
12-14-2004, 11:49 PM #8
Tom Hanson
MBCA Member

What the heck, try to stuff a MB 6.9 liter V8 in it. What a machine that would be..
__________________
Tom Hanson
Orange County Section
Go to Top of Page

Ron B

Australia
11633 Posts

Posted - 09/03/2011 :  18:51:01  Show Profile  Visit Ron B's Homepage  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Craig Tucker

Eugene,


You can use a small amount of compressed air in the forward half of the master cylinder to "blow" back the piston to it's rest. ie: take c It could take an hour for the levels to become consistant and air bubbles to disapear. Once they are, best to leave it over-night. In the morning, all four bleed lines should show the same level and line up with the brake fluide level in the res. Tighten bleed nipples, remove lines and you're set. There should be no air in the system at all and your pedal should be hard as a rock. If not check that the pedal is actually conected to the booster........lol.

Hope this makes sense??

C.T.



1969 300SEL 6.3 (to be AMG 6.8 replica) #1268
1971 300SEL 6.3 #5713
1970 600 SWB #1692
1993 300E-24
1959 220SE Ponton #9500929
1983 Schuler 5.0lt Range Rover



If the pedal is as hard as rock,the booster is Kaput. Because new M/c are cheap,just buy a new one. A booster is checked by hooking a vacuum source to the white line and pumping it down to vacuum then seeing how long it holds. If the vacuum collapses before 30 minutes the booster diaphragm is leaking .
Ideally a booster will hold a vacuum indefinitely. I have pulled the white line from boosters in cars that have sat for months and they have had a vacuum still.

quote:
12-14-2004, 11:49 PM #8
Tom Hanson
MBCA Member

What the heck, try to stuff a MB 6.9 liter V8 in it. What a machine that would be..
__________________
Tom Hanson
Orange County Section
Go to Top of Page

Art Love

Australia
6239 Posts

Posted - 09/03/2011 :  20:14:11  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Eugene,
For everyone else's education, what was wrong with the brakes - what did you do differently to solve your problem?
Art
Go to Top of Page

Craig Tucker

Australia
654 Posts

Posted - 09/04/2011 :  01:24:38  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Ron,

I am assuming Eugene is/was bleeding the brakes with out the motor running, therefore there would be NO vaccuum assist. Hense the hard pedal I would be looking for.

C.T.

1969 300SEL 6.3 (to be AMG 6.8 replica) #1268
1971 300SEL 6.3 #5713
1970 600 SWB #1692
1993 300E-24
1959 220SE Ponton #9500929
1983 Schuler 5.0lt Range Rover
Go to Top of Page

Ron B

Australia
11633 Posts

Posted - 09/04/2011 :  18:47:37  Show Profile  Visit Ron B's Homepage  Reply with Quote
easy fixed in most workshops, just hook up the vacuum pump. I use my aircon evac unit.

quote:
12-14-2004, 11:49 PM #8
Tom Hanson
MBCA Member

What the heck, try to stuff a MB 6.9 liter V8 in it. What a machine that would be..
__________________
Tom Hanson
Orange County Section
Go to Top of Page

EugeneGroysman

USA
120 Posts

Posted - 09/09/2011 :  00:42:45  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
After reading your comments, I realized that my replacement master cylinder came with a bleeding kit. It consisted of three rubber hoses and three temporary plastic threaded inserts. I placed the open end of the hoses into reservoir and filled it with fluid. I started pumping and making sure to keep the brake fluid topped off in the reservoir. I could see lots of air bubbles coming out of the tubes with the brake fluid, and saw bubbles in the reservoir floating to the top.... After installation, everything worked!
Thanks again for your help.

I changed all filters and ready to fill the engine and transmission with new fluids.
How much transmission fluid and motor oil do I need to purchase? I've never done this before. Are there any specifics I should know?

I came across an ad on US eBay:MERCEDES SEAT COVERS300sel 6.3 LEATHER for $783.75 (Item number: 150243724966) but very sceptical about quality. If anyone familiar with their products please let me hear your opinion. Eventually I would like to change leather covers on all seats.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=150243724966&ssPageName=ADME:B:EF:MOTORS:1123




1971 6.3
2011 S550 4matic
2011 ML350
1997 Porsche 993 C4S 'Kills bugs fast'.
Go to Top of Page

olliw109

Germany
385 Posts

Posted - 09/09/2011 :  03:37:50  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hi Eugene;
I guess trans fluid is around 8.5 liters(), if converter was empty, if not 1 liter less. You know what that is in gallons.
Make sure (esp. for motor oil!!) you have the correct dipstick.

300 SEL 6.3 3478+5327
Oliver
Go to Top of Page
Page: of 16 Previous Topic Topic Next Topic  
Previous Page | Next Page
 New Topic  Reply to Topic
 Printer Friendly
Jump To:
M-100 Message Board © 2002-2015 International M-100 Group, Inc. Go To Top Of Page
This page was generated in 5.41 seconds. Powered By: Snitz Forums 2000 Version 3.4.06