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 6.3
 My 1971 300SEL 6.3
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Art Love

Australia
6237 Posts

Posted - 06/08/2011 :  01:47:02  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Prices quoted by Tom are usually retail, pre-discount. You will need the 2 outer plates as well, 108 637 01 36 and 108 637 02 36 if they are available and not a stupid price, which they weren't when I last ordered them. If you get someone to make them, they will cost just as much in labor if not more.

To raise the air suspension without the motor running, you need a compressor which can deliver about 120psi or more and a tyre inflation fitting for the compressor hose. You attach it to the Schrader valve on the side of the air reservoir behind the left headlight in front of the left front wheel. It is easy to get to with the fender off. The valve is to the rear about a quarter the way up the reservoir from the bottom. Same as blowing up a tyre.





Once the reservoir is full of compressed air, you can drain any water and sludge from it by pushing the drain valve on the bottom sideways - it tilts.









The water and sludge will blow out under pressure, so don't stand too close or wear your best shoes. There may be very little or there may be a lot, depending on when it was last drained.




Art
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EugeneGroysman

USA
120 Posts

Posted - 06/13/2011 :  20:44:37  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I ordered parts from Tom and while waiting desided to remove radiator, water pump and compressor for rebuild.



Red liquid was comming out from smaller hoses at the buttom.
What could it be?






I am having hard time to loosen this nut and the other one on the top. Can I heat them up?


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Art Love

Australia
6237 Posts

Posted - 06/13/2011 :  22:59:00  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Eugene,
The red fluid is your automatic transmission fluid. Hitch the hoses up to something to stop the fluid running out - you want to keep as much fluid as possible in the transmission. The automatic transmission fluid cooler is in the bottom tank of the radiator.

The lines you are having trouble with are the engine oil cooler lines. The bottom one will dump all your engine oil onto your driveway when you loosen it. Have a trough or drum ready to catch it when you undo the line. I would suggest that you spray liberal amounts of antisieze over the fittings and let them sit for 24 hours. Then get a good quality long spanner of the correct metric size and try again. If you still have no success, get a length of steel pipe about a yard long that will fit over the spanner to use for more leverage. At a pinch, if you can't find such a length of pipe, you can try striking the other end of the spanner with a brass or plastic hammer to crack the nut. Others may have further suggestions. If you are going to do this work, good tools are essential. If you take the radiator out, you will need to add a new set of radiator support rubbers to your order with Tom.

Unless you are sure there is a problem with the water pump, my advice is that you leave it alone. You may open up a real can of worms removing it.
Art
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S class

South Africa
955 Posts

Posted - 06/14/2011 :  06:02:01  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
When removing these engine oil lines, if its taking that much force, you should also counterhold the fitting on the cooler with a second spanner, otherwise you could (will) tear the fitting off the cooler.



116.036
116.036
116.024
107.044
202.018



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Art Love

Australia
6237 Posts

Posted - 06/14/2011 :  09:00:11  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Ryan,
You are absolutely correct. I should have thought of that. Change advice re undoing to:- Use 2 good quality long spanners with the one on the hose positioned so that you squeeze it between two hands towards the fixed one on the cooler to undo it. Resort to previous advice only if that fails and ensure that the spanner on the cooler if jambed against an immoveable object or firmly held by a second person.
Art
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EugeneGroysman

USA
120 Posts

Posted - 06/14/2011 :  13:33:41  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks for replies,
I applied some antisieze on it and will try tomorrow.

I am in a process of removing air compressor and got stuck with last hose.






This is what I use and I am not happy about it. What tools should I use for this job?


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EugeneGroysman

USA
120 Posts

Posted - 06/14/2011 :  16:32:05  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Finally, I managed to remove that last hose.
Compressor is out!








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Art Love

Australia
6237 Posts

Posted - 06/14/2011 :  19:31:21  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Read carefully the thread on repairing the air compressor if you plan to try to repair it. DO NOT use a pulley puller on the cast double pulley.
Art
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Ron B

Australia
11633 Posts

Posted - 06/15/2011 :  01:20:45  Show Profile  Visit Ron B's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Dont use SAE wrenches on metric nuts either
The hose needs to be replaced. it looks like the original.
I reuse those hose end fittings because they unscrew and you just need to fit a new piece of hose. If there is a hydraulic line repair place lose to you ,ask them about Cummins Diesel Hose as it has the correct look and is indestructible.
The O ring under the compressor is a square section NOT a round section. It has to be square so it wont roll out when the compressor is tightened against the belts.

quote:
12-14-2004, 11:49 PM #8
Tom Hanson
MBCA Member

What the heck, try to stuff a MB 6.9 liter V8 in it. What a machine that would be..
__________________
Tom Hanson
Orange County Section
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Chris Johnson

USA
3751 Posts

Posted - 06/15/2011 :  01:28:21  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
The O ring under the compressor is a square section NOT a round section. It has to be square so it wont roll out when the compressor is tightened against the belts.


Not so. This O-ring is a standard round cross section item, and is less likely to pull out than a square section o-ring would be.

Chris Johnson
If you aren't constantly impressed with your car, then it needs fixing.
100.012-12-000790
100.012-12-000867
www.300SE.org
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EugeneGroysman

USA
120 Posts

Posted - 06/15/2011 :  17:41:23  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I would like someone to rebuild my compressor, ps pump and water pump for me. Are there any 6.3 mechanics in NY/NJ area? I guess, shipping the items is another option.

Ron,
Can you make a pic of Cummins Diesel Hose with end fittings in place?
Thanks,
Eugene
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Ron B

Australia
11633 Posts

Posted - 06/15/2011 :  18:46:38  Show Profile  Visit Ron B's Homepage  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Chris Johnson

quote:
The O ring under the compressor is a square section NOT a round section. It has to be square so it wont roll out when the compressor is tightened against the belts.


Not so. This O-ring is a standard round cross section item, and is less likely to pull out than a square section o-ring would be.

Chris Johnson
If you aren't constantly impressed with your car, then it needs fixing.
100.012-12-000790
100.012-12-000867
www.300SE.org



i have bag of square section O rings I have been using for years which ,(although they dont have a part number) are the correct ones. So I will keep using them because i have never had one fail yet.



quote:
12-14-2004, 11:49 PM #8
Tom Hanson
MBCA Member

What the heck, try to stuff a MB 6.9 liter V8 in it. What a machine that would be..
__________________
Tom Hanson
Orange County Section
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Chris Johnson

USA
3751 Posts

Posted - 06/15/2011 :  19:54:37  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I'm sure they won't fail. After all, if it compresses, it's a seal.

Chris Johnson
If you aren't constantly impressed with your car, then it needs fixing.
100.012-12-000790
100.012-12-000867
www.300SE.org
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EugeneGroysman

USA
120 Posts

Posted - 06/15/2011 :  21:05:35  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Ron,
I came across another topic with pics where you explained how to reuse original fittings.
Thank you.
Eugene

quote:
Originally posted by Ron B

Dont use SAE wrenches on metric nuts either
The hose needs to be replaced. it looks like the original.
I reuse those hose end fittings because they unscrew and you just need to fit a new piece of hose. If there is a hydraulic line repair place lose to you ,ask them about Cummins Diesel Hose as it has the correct look and is indestructible.
The O ring under the compressor is a square section NOT a round section. It has to be square so it wont roll out when the compressor is tightened against the belts.

quote:
12-14-2004, 11:49 PM #8
Tom Hanson
MBCA Member

What the heck, try to stuff a MB 6.9 liter V8 in it. What a machine that would be..
__________________
Tom Hanson
Orange County Section


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Art Love

Australia
6237 Posts

Posted - 06/16/2011 :  02:30:32  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Eugene,
Star Motors in Endicott NY have a very long association with this Group and specialize in 6.3's. They can rebuild your pumps. Phone (607) 754 4272, www.300sel.com. Neil Dubey is the proprietor.

Without prolonging the argument unnecessarily, the factory O ring for the pump oil return, 003 997 55 45 has a round profile.
Art
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