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 6.3
 My 1971 300SEL 6.3
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Chris Johnson

USA
3751 Posts

Posted - 02/03/2013 :  17:42:03  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hello Eugene,

The photos you posted are small so I can't be certain of this, but it sure looks like the #2 and #7 spark plug wires are reversed at the distributor cap! Please confirm or deny.

Re: your current problem of non-starting, we need more information. Specifically, to avoid making any assumptions, we need much more detail. Starting with the resistor, originally, one lead would have gone to the coil + post and the other end would have a wire connected coming from the engine harness. Were does this wire (from the harness to the resistor) now go? Secondly, there MAY have been a wire from the harness going directly to the coil + post. Was this wire there, and were does it go now?

Was there a bare stranded (or braided) wire inside the distributor before (connecting the points plate to the inside of the distributor body), and is it still there?

The trigger ring in your photo looks different than I would expect. That doesn't necessarily mean anything, but it does look as though it might create more interference with the rotor. Does the rotor go on easily? Does the cap snap down easily once the rotor is in place?

Do you get any spark from the coil wire if you pull it from the cap and hold it near the engine while cranking the engine?

Chris Johnson
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EugeneGroysman

USA
120 Posts

Posted - 02/06/2013 :  13:03:14  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks All for replies,

Chris, you are right, #2 and #7 were reversed.
Also a bare stranded wire inside the distributor is still there.
I am going to ask my father to help me to work on the issue this weekend.
Eugene
PS: recently I went to Queens NY and passed by a bodyshop. I made some pics. Check my other post.

1971 6.3 "Brown Sugar"
2011 S550 4matic
2011 ML350 4matic
1997 Porsche 993 C4S 'Kills bugs fast'.
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benz_head

USA
452 Posts

Posted - 02/06/2013 :  23:53:22  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Wow Chris...wow!

benz_head
#1349
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EugeneGroysman

USA
120 Posts

Posted - 02/08/2013 :  02:30:07  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Today, I decided to take a step back and redo my installation all over again.
Chris, your post was very helpful.Thank you.
As per questions in your post:

"Starting with the resistor, originally, one lead would have gone to the coil + post and the other end would have a wire connected coming from the engine harness. Were does this wire (from the harness to the resistor) now go?" RESISTOR is out. The harness is connected directly to the coil.



"Secondly, there MAY have been a wire from the harness going directly to the coil + post. Was this wire there, and were does it go now?" YES there is another wire from the harness going directly to the coil. Still the same.




"Was there a bare stranded (or braided) wire inside the distributor before (connecting the points plate to the inside of the distributor body), and is it still there?" YES, it is still there.




"The trigger ring in your photo looks different than I would expect. That doesn't necessarily mean anything, but it does look as though it might create more interference with the rotor. Does the rotor go on easily? Does the cap snap down easily once the rotor is in place?" YES No problem here.

"Do you get any spark from the coil wire if you pull it from the cap and hold it near the engine while cranking the engine?" YES, strong spark.

I noticed that sole plate is too close to the rotor.




I grind the plate. Installed everything back.






















I've tried to start engine. After several attempts, it started picking up but battery was too weak and I stopped trying. I am sure after recharge it will start..

..I guess conversion is completed but no improvement of cold start.

PS: what is this for?




1971 6.3 "Brown Sugar"
2011 S550 4matic
2011 ML350 4matic
1997 Porsche 993 C4S 'Kills bugs fast'.
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Ron B

Australia
11633 Posts

Posted - 02/08/2013 :  18:35:51  Show Profile  Visit Ron B's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Now ,you have spark at the spark plugs?
Check by plugging in a spare plug and laying it on a cam cover. When cranking, the spark plug should show a spark.
If not,start by checking the rotor itself. From the center to out side tip of the rotor theres' normally a resistance but these are known to fail. What you have there is a rotor for a M116 engine. note the 4.5 marked on it?.
Try another rotor,even a burnt one will work with a pertronix.
Next ,test each plug lead for resistance.
The resistance is written on the plug terminal.
Finally , are you sure you have fuel?



quote:
12-14-2004, 11:49 PM #8
Tom Hanson
MBCA Member

What the heck, try to stuff a MB 6.9 liter V8 in it. What a machine that would be..
__________________
Tom Hanson
Orange County Section

Edited by - Ron B on 02/08/2013 18:38:02
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EugeneGroysman

USA
120 Posts

Posted - 11/25/2013 :  01:52:37  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Recently I shipped my car to a shop for body work.
I will check on the progress next week and post more pics.








1971 6.3
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benz_head

USA
452 Posts

Posted - 11/25/2013 :  16:17:32  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Go big or go home!

benz_head
#1349
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Ron B

Australia
11633 Posts

Posted - 11/27/2013 :  01:39:23  Show Profile  Visit Ron B's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Thats not serious actually. Most Fintails and W108's will rust there too.

quote:
12-14-2004, 11:49 PM #8
Tom Hanson
MBCA Member

What the heck, try to stuff a MB 6.9 liter V8 in it. What a machine that would be..
__________________
Tom Hanson
Orange County Section
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EugeneGroysman

USA
120 Posts

Posted - 12/17/2013 :  10:55:33  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I was at the shop checking on my car. Here are some pics.

























1971 300SEL 6.3
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S class

South Africa
955 Posts

Posted - 12/17/2013 :  13:52:35  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
That's exciting. Looks like the car was pretty much free of dents.



116.036
116.036
116.024
116.028
116.028
107.044
202.026




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Ron B

Australia
11633 Posts

Posted - 12/20/2013 :  14:58:25  Show Profile  Visit Ron B's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Nice work!. I have a Mercedes body manual here from 1965 and it shows how to replace the jack points when they rusted out. So it would appear that the problem has always been there.

quote:
12-14-2004, 11:49 PM #8
Tom Hanson
MBCA Member

What the heck, try to stuff a MB 6.9 liter V8 in it. What a machine that would be..
__________________
Tom Hanson
Orange County Section
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EugeneGroysman

USA
120 Posts

Posted - 02/12/2014 :  05:50:18  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I would like to check if there is a special sealer/rubber between front fenders and body? Guys at the shop are about to bolt front fenders back on.
Thanks, Eugene.

1971 300SEL 6.3
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EugeneGroysman

USA
120 Posts

Posted - 02/21/2014 :  13:17:46  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
This week update,
All rust spots are taken care of, welding work is done, the car is ready for primer.


















Did anybody use aftermarket door seals? Please advice, Eugene.

1971 300SEL 6.3
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Art Love

Australia
6237 Posts

Posted - 02/22/2014 :  02:36:26  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Eugene,
Sorry I missed your post a week or so ago. There is a foam spacer between the fenders and the front wheel housings. This is now a "universal strip", rather than the original body specific rubber strip. You can buy it from Tom Hanson or any dealership.

I would not waste money on aftermarket door seals. The factory seals fit perfectly, are of high quality and not expensive for what they are. Again from Tom Hanson with your club discount.
Art
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EugeneGroysman

USA
120 Posts

Posted - 03/04/2014 :  03:20:49  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Art,
Thank you for your reply.. Got the spacers from Tom.

I would like to paint my car in original brown color. Any suggestions?
Eugene

1971 300SEL 6.3
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