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 Working on air valves
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Ron B

Australia
11633 Posts

Posted - 01/31/2013 :  19:36:58  Show Profile  Visit Ron B's Homepage  Reply with Quote
The problem with using an engine crane is that it gets in the way when shifting the axle around on the floor.

quote:
12-14-2004, 11:49 PM #8
Tom Hanson
MBCA Member

What the heck, try to stuff a MB 6.9 liter V8 in it. What a machine that would be..
__________________
Tom Hanson
Orange County Section
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FEMA

USA
1392 Posts

Posted - 01/31/2013 :  23:15:47  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Rod, crazy Glad to hear it because you only live once

Francis E. Abate
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FEMA

USA
1392 Posts

Posted - 02/04/2013 :  12:11:05  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hey Ron, another thought for lifting my car high enough would be to get a mid rise lift - something I've been wanting to purchase so now perhaps with good reason.

I assume you have one of these but in any case it should do the trick for clearance space under the car. I'll keep you posted.

Francis E. Abate
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Chris Johnson

USA
3751 Posts

Posted - 02/04/2013 :  13:13:42  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
It's more "shade tree" and less "professional", but there is another way to do this for those that want to consider it.

Put the car up on normal jack-stands, and support the engine either from above with the engine bay strut or engine hoist, or below by two jack-stands and a board under the oil pan. Now you can dis-assemble the A arms, steering components, etc. from the subframe to the point where the subframe is the only thing remaining. Then, with the help of another pair of hands, remove the upper subframe bolts and drop the subframe by hand.

The bare subframe is not heavy and can easily be managed by two people. A repainted subframe can be re-installed the same way once new top subframe bushings have been installed.

Regardless of the method used to R&R the subframe, there are a few particulars that need to be considered in order to get the subframe installed without any distortion to the rubber mounting parts, and some of these are actually easier to check and understand if the subframe is installed by itself, rather than as a fully assembled unit.

These warrant a lot of discussion, but will have to wait for a future post.

Chris Johnson
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FEMA

USA
1392 Posts

Posted - 02/04/2013 :  23:07:26  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Chris;

Now that's a wrinkle I wasn't counting on, i.e., a crooked installation. I would hope with a little care that either way, I will get it to return properly.

Could someone define "subframe" for the membership here - I've not looked in my book yet so I don't have a clear picture of it in my pretty little head I'll also guess that many may not be familiar for a variety of reasons so...may start a new thread elsewhere so answer me there and I'll save it for re posting after the web site transfer.

Francis E. Abate
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Ron B

Australia
11633 Posts

Posted - 02/05/2013 :  05:45:19  Show Profile  Visit Ron B's Homepage  Reply with Quote
My axle jig lets me lift it up straight or at an angle if the rear of the car is down.
I like to do all of the work on the floor or bench if possible as laying under a car assembling things gets old ( like Me) in a hurry.






Mercedes invented the engine support frame


quote:
12-14-2004, 11:49 PM #8
Tom Hanson
MBCA Member

What the heck, try to stuff a MB 6.9 liter V8 in it. What a machine that would be..
__________________
Tom Hanson
Orange County Section
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Panik

Australia
57 Posts

Posted - 02/05/2013 :  06:09:15  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I did this job a couple of weekends ago, using my engine crane and a lot of swearing, because I did it on my own in the driveway.

But after driving the car, it was all worth it. :)


1969 W108 280S
1971 W109 300SEL 3.5
1972 W108 280SE 3.5
1996 W210 E320 Elegance
2003 VW B5.5 Passat 1.8T (wifemobile)
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FEMA

USA
1392 Posts

Posted - 02/05/2013 :  10:55:47  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
make a simple jig which fits into the jack. It holds both lower control arms and has a little arm that secures the axle via the cross stay bracket.


Ron, any pictures of this axle jig I would need to make this or find one for sale perhaps

My main concern is that with disconnecting idler arms / steering components; must this be done? I ask because once you do this the car is out of alignment and can not be driven far. Am I wrong, is this only when replacing the idler arms or other pieces?

This happened to me when I replaced an idler on my ML Class but it was easy enough to drive to the local alignment shop. Can't do that with my 6.3 as the closest shop is 200 miles away and I don't want to pay to tow it that far.



Francis E. Abate
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6.3Nut

USA
204 Posts

Posted - 06/14/2015 :  23:42:54  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I am sending my front right and rear valves to http://www.woerle-fahrzeugtechnik.com/homepage.html as they did the front left. Anywho, once the valves come back is there some sort of silicone based gel I could use on the air line threads and how much force do I need to apply on the nuts or just hand tight? Just do not want to ruin things.

There cars and then there are BABIES!
1969 Euro Model
10901812000931
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Art Love

Australia
6237 Posts

Posted - 06/15/2015 :  01:14:08  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
You do not need to put any sealant on the threads. The seal is by the square profile rubber O ring that seats in the female component of the line end fitting - #112 997 04 40. There should be one in every port on the air valve. I tighten them to what I would describe as "firm". There is no point in making them too tight. If they are loose, air will escape around the thread - rather the same effect you get if one of the seal rings drops out of the valve female fittings without your noticing and the line goes in without it.
Art
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6.3Nut

USA
204 Posts

Posted - 06/15/2015 :  01:16:48  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hey Art thanks for the reply. I was looking for some thread lubrication not sealant - sorry for not making my self clear.

There cars and then there are BABIES!
1969 Euro Model
10901812000931
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Art Love

Australia
6237 Posts

Posted - 06/15/2015 :  01:34:00  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
OK, Justin and I use 3M Brake Lube anti-Sieze Compound. It comes in a can with a screw top that has a brush fitted to the top, like the similar Rubber Glue cans from M-B and Wurth. I use it everywhere on threads. You should be able to get it because my can says made in the USA at the 3M Automotive Trades Division in St Paul. Part number on the can is 08945.
Art

P.S. There is a photo of the can on page 2 of this thread.

I also wondered if I should make this thread "sticky" so it stays at the top of the 6.3 Forum and is easy to find. I have tried to do that with other technical threads that are read several thousand times. This has been criticized by one member, but seems useful. Input regarding this would be appreciated.

Edited by - Art Love on 06/15/2015 01:46:57
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6.3Nut

USA
204 Posts

Posted - 06/15/2015 :  02:19:00  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks Art. Sticky is a good idea specially for the valve, it is a topic that is very useful. I fully subscribe to the Sticky idea

There cars and then there are BABIES!
1969 Euro Model
10901812000931
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6.3Nut

USA
204 Posts

Posted - 06/15/2015 :  02:42:15  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Art, do you think it would be better if, under 6.3, you create a folder "Valve Maint." or something better and then put this valuable topic under there?

There cars and then there are BABIES!
1969 Euro Model
10901812000931
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6.3Nut

USA
204 Posts

Posted - 06/20/2015 :  23:21:49  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hey Art, I just received a new set of rod and ball joints for the rear leveling valve. The ball joints are new shape but the thing that surprised me was the the shorter length of the rod by about 1/4". I would not be replacing the joints had they not been so looooooooooose, they pop out. Any way, have you ordered a rear rod recently and have you noticed the diff., if you have does it make any difference?

There cars and then there are BABIES!
1969 Euro Model
10901812000931

Edited by - 6.3Nut on 06/20/2015 23:25:00
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