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 Suspension air compressor
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Jack English

USA
1097 Posts

Posted - 04/09/2015 :  00:05:53  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Petur, earlier in the thread mention is made of the "double lipped seal." I may have bought the last one available from Tom Hanson at the Classic Center recently. Seems these are only used on the W109 cars with the two pumps linked. Perhaps Tom was successful in having a new batch produced. Good Luck.

Jack English
300SEL 6.3 #4768
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Mercedes300sel

Iceland
4 Posts

Posted - 04/09/2015 :  11:03:22  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks. I Will maybe find some thing at my dealership or maybe aftermarket. And thanks again for the advice I appreciate

Pétur
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werminghausen

USA
771 Posts

Posted - 03/01/2016 :  23:51:39  Show Profile  Visit werminghausen's Homepage  Reply with Quote
I just read through the compressor repair. Nice. What I am missing is the bronze bushings that potentially need to be exchanged if worn.
This is for a higher mileage compressor or one that had problems with lubrication.
I have seem some of the compressors in not that great shape as the one here. Some have 2/10mm play in the bronze bushings.
Knorr was using 2 types of bushings.. High leaded Bronze (15% Pb) for the softer Crankshaft bushings and 'Rotguss'for the hard piston pin in the piston rod. These bronze bushings are not part of the MB kit.
These bushings need to be machined with 2/100 play for the rotating shaft and press seat for the seat itself (2/100).
Typically the cylinder requires some honing and piston with new rings for a higher mileage compressor.
Martin


Edited by - werminghausen on 04/22/2016 21:33:42
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werminghausen

USA
771 Posts

Posted - 08/06/2016 :  12:33:29  Show Profile  Visit werminghausen's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Here is another aspect to consider.
Testing the check valves

I have renovated various compressors. In my humble experience the tightness of the compressor determines the power of the compression and suction. This means if the check valves are not closing properly even the best renovated compressor is not pumping well.
New check valves sometimes are not tight enough and I developed my own testing protocol. I have not experienced how slightly leaking new check valves are improving or not over time. Whenever I renovate these compressors I am testing and work as long as it takes to have the valves working properly.
The tightness of the piston rings/cylinder is important too but the check valves come first.

Martin
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Mercedes300sel

Iceland
4 Posts

Posted - 08/07/2016 :  06:03:33  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks I will check mine when I get a change. I will also need to have my crankshaft repaired it is badly worn.
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AgSilver

USA
287 Posts

Posted - 08/07/2016 :  12:45:35  Show Profile  Visit AgSilver's Homepage  Reply with Quote
It's just an old fashioned air compressor with a hydraulic pump screwed on to it. The real complexity, as we all know, are all the components "south" of the compressor. We are fortunate to have Martin, who's remanufactured components are arguably better than the OEM's.

300SEL 6.3
E55 AMG
CLK63 AMG Gone
Ferrari 400GTC4
ML400CDI BiTurbo
ML350 CDI BT
9146GT
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rumb

USA
124 Posts

Posted - 08/28/2018 :  13:08:14  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
This is a great guide. Currently rebuilding a pump.

The bearing is not included in the kit. it was a FAG 6303A, but that is not available so a 6303 c3 is what you will find. I used a hot air gun and heated the bearing to @275 degrees F and it easily slipped onto the shaft. I had to remove the key from the shaft to get the bearing and seal on and then put it back in after the front cover was on.

I used a properly sized metal hose clamp to compress the piston rings while I pushed the head over the piston. I found trying to push the rings in by hand impossible to do.




rumb
68 250S, 77 450SEL 6.9, 91 300SE, 98 SL500, 14 CLS550
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6.3Nut

USA
204 Posts

Posted - 09/06/2018 :  11:57:26  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I did not want to clutter the board so posting my question here. My car has been parked in air lock mode for around 7 - 8 months as I have been working on the engine. I have noticed that, with my moving on and off the engine compartment, the car has lowered by about an inch. Considering I can not start the motor, how much air pressure do I need to put into the air tank to be able to raise the car back up again?

There cars and then there are BABIES!
1969 Euro Model
10901812000931

Edited by - 6.3Nut on 09/06/2018 12:22:23
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james lawson

USA
1334 Posts

Posted - 09/08/2018 :  20:26:24  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
120+ psi works. I installed a shrader valve on the braided line from pump to the check valve. Way easier. If it’s going to be a long time you can always install shrader valves on the air tanks. It takes three.

jim
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