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 Working on air bellows
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wpmilby3

USA
59 Posts

Posted - 10/16/2014 :  20:28:03  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
WOW they look great. Is there a color number so we can ask for from the paint suppliers?
Will
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FEMA

USA
1391 Posts

Posted - 10/16/2014 :  22:21:22  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Will, I could not find a color that matched Art's exactly however I did find one I thought was close at my local ACE hardware or NAPA store. Can't recall how I decided except that I studied Art's procedure quite intently before embarking on the task, which was quite successful.

Let me know if you'd like me to find that color.

Francis E. Abate
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4882

Australia
73 Posts

Posted - 10/17/2014 :  00:15:31  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I found the closest match was PPG Red oxide D729 you will be able to get it from any automotive paint supplier that sells the PPG range.







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Art Love

Australia
6231 Posts

Posted - 10/17/2014 :  02:54:26  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
We used red oxide as well.
Art
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6.3Nut

USA
202 Posts

Posted - 01/09/2016 :  14:42:09  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hey Art, I have just installed the level control valves all is snug except there is a small leak from around the inlet air pipe not from the threads on the flare nut. Want to get your expert opinion before I take the front right valve off, it is a PAIN when you have to lie under the car and work with limited space.

There cars and then there are BABIES!
1969 Euro Model
10901812000931
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Art Love

Australia
6231 Posts

Posted - 01/09/2016 :  19:51:33  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
If I understand you correctly, the leak is from the right front valve at the E connection, but not from the thread of the pipe itself. That only leaves the thread between the 14mm brass piece and the alloy of the body as the source of the leak unless there is a pinhole in the pipe at the flare nut. It should be practical to work out where it is coming from with soapy water spray. It is not necessary to take the whole valve back off the car to deal with that.

If the washer between the brass 14mm connection and the alloy body is missing or damaged, you just need to undo the pipe and then undo the brass fitting from the body leaving the valve in place, replace the washer with a new one and re-tighten the parts.

If I have misunderstood you, get back and I shall try again. I agree that it is a total pain working under one of these cars without a hoist, and the older I get, the less pleasant it becomes. At least, particularly on a LHD car, the front right valve is the least tedious to work on. The left front is a real test of patience on a 6.3 with all steel pipes and little room!
Art
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6.3Nut

USA
202 Posts

Posted - 01/09/2016 :  22:09:36  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Art, thanks for the reply and I am sorry for the confusion. In fact the leak is from the nut on the pipe. When I spray soapy water the bubbles appear to come from where the pipe passes the nut.

There cars and then there are BABIES!
1969 Euro Model
10901812000931
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Art Love

Australia
6231 Posts

Posted - 01/10/2016 :  03:00:17  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
OK. Make sure the pipe flare nut is not cross threaded, then try to re-tighten it. If it is properly tight and still leaking, then you need to look at the flared end of the pipe to see if it is damaged and to check that the seal washer in the brass fitting at the E connection of the valve where the end of the pipe seats is not missing or damaged. Again, that does not involve taking the whole valve off the subframe. You may need to use a small mirror to see the seal washer.
Art
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6.3Nut

USA
202 Posts

Posted - 01/11/2016 :  13:36:35  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Art, Now I am a BIG fan of German products but the Nylon Ball joints just gives me the Heebies the Jeebies, so I want to replace the brand new nylon ball joints with ones from J.W.Winco. Two questions:
a) What size should I ask?
b) Can I use stainless Steel ones?


There cars and then there are BABIES!
1969 Euro Model
10901812000931

Edited by - 6.3Nut on 01/11/2016 13:43:33
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Art Love

Australia
6231 Posts

Posted - 01/11/2016 :  18:45:35  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
The rods I have here are all 5mm and you need a RH thread for one end and a LH thread for the other. I am not aware of any reason why you cannot use stainless.
Art

P.S. The ball joints that I have from Winco are made in Germany anyway.

Edited by - Art Love on 01/11/2016 18:47:19
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Art Love

Australia
6231 Posts

Posted - 01/28/2016 :  17:45:39  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I want to correct an error in my last posting in case it is used as a reference. The rods I picked to measure from my "boxes of bits" were inadvertently fuel mixture control rods from engine management. The rods for the air suspension and their associated ball joints are 6mm, not 5mm. I have sent Nadir an e.mail.
Art

Edited by - Art Love on 01/28/2016 17:48:48
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6.3Nut

USA
202 Posts

Posted - 02/15/2016 :  21:35:12  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Art Love

OK. Make sure the pipe flare nut is not cross threaded, then try to re-tighten it. If it is properly tight and still leaking, then you need to look at the flared end of the pipe to see if it is damaged and to check that the seal washer in the brass fitting at the E connection of the valve where the end of the pipe seats is not missing or damaged. Again, that does not involve taking the whole valve off the subframe. You may need to use a small mirror to see the seal washer.
Art



Well Art, I had to take the valve off, the seal looked OK through the mirror but since the flare end was spot on so I figured the problem's got to be with the seal, and sure as day light the seal was lose so I put in a new one and now with just a slight nudge on the flare nut I have a good seal - Thanks for your input.

There cars and then there are BABIES!
1969 Euro Model
10901812000931

Edited by - 6.3Nut on 02/15/2016 21:41:32
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Art Love

Australia
6231 Posts

Posted - 02/15/2016 :  23:43:32  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
My pleasure; I am pleased you have had a successful outcome. As an aside, I spent yesterday afternoon changing all three air valves on #765. The ones on the car had been "repaired" in Melbourne about 10 years ago and the car was on its knees after 2-3 days - very annoying! Jim Jones at Three Point very kindly offered me use of a spare hoist yesterday - I had been putting the job off for months having done it on stands in the past. So I grabbed the opportunity and put on three valves that I have had repaired by Martin Werminghausen. That left front valve on a RHD 6.3 is tedious - 7 steel pipes and two bolts to line up. The other two are straight forward. Now I need some 6mm ball joints from J.W.Winco to replace the substandard "plastic" ones to finish the job properly!
Art
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Art Love

Australia
6231 Posts

Posted - 02/17/2016 :  19:35:48  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
OK, here is another update. I ordered some left and right hand thread 6mm ball joints from J W Winco in WI, from whom I have purchased them in the past only to be advised that their German supplier would no longer let them sell them outside the USA. So I contacted the German manufacturer, Otto Ganter GmbH & Co. KG in Furtwangen asking if they had an Australian outlet.

At the same time, Phil Solowski of J W Winco had kindly sent my order detail on to Glaiza Stehle of Export Sales at Otto Ganter who contacted me directly with details of their Australian outlet and also sent the Australian business a copy of my order.

That business, D&D Barry Pty Ltd of 2/20 Sedgwick St, Smeaton Grange NSW 2567 through their manager, Richard Cameron then send me a proforma invoice for the order in Australian dollars. The whole business was conducted within 48 hours. Of note is the cost of the units in A$ was within 1 cent of the US cost based on the current exchange rate with just the additional Australian GST then added. Allowing for the difference in freight costs, the cost is much the same.

So American, European and Australian members of this Group now have the details of suppliers of these ball joints in their regions.
Art
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6.3Nut

USA
202 Posts

Posted - 05/15/2016 :  23:49:10  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
[quote]Originally posted by Art Love

The new buffers arrived today, so we got on with replacing the front bellows units. Here are the buffers going in. This is a bit of a fiddle because the bottom of the rubber is wider than the top, as are the metal cylinders they go in. Plenty of rubber grease.




[quote]

Hello Art, what is the part number for the buffers. I have searched the entire EPC for my car and it only mentions emergency running buffers A1125830084.


There cars and then there are BABIES!
1969 Euro Model
10901812000931
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