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 6.3
 The rebuild starts !
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pjtigger

United Kingdom
153 Posts

Posted - 02/11/2011 :  14:48:04  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I've got most of the engine components cleaned up now and the block mounted on the engine stand , thats just needs a final clean & re-paint now. Picked up the heads this morning from the engine shop - they just needed a couple of broken studs removing. Its always interesting going to the engine shop as they always have loads of interesting things in there - today Ferrari 250 & Daytona blocks & a pairs of Lamborghini Muira heads + some really strange looking 1914 engine.



Most of the new parts have arrived , i'm just waiting on the big end bearings - i think i've finally sourced a set from someone in Germany
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Ron B

Australia
11633 Posts

Posted - 02/13/2011 :  04:26:58  Show Profile  Visit Ron B's Homepage  Reply with Quote
I love that engine stand,did you build it? if only steel was reasonably priced here I could make things like that all day...


quote:
12-14-2004, 11:49 PM #8
Tom Hanson
MBCA Member

What the heck, try to stuff a MB 6.9 liter V8 in it. What a machine that would be..
__________________
Tom Hanson
Orange County Section
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pjtigger

United Kingdom
153 Posts

Posted - 02/13/2011 :  05:50:44  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Yes - its the Mk2 stand , worm gearbox (from ebay) added to make rotating the engine easier (and safer with the weight of a M100 engine!!) Its made from mainly offcuts we had lying around
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pjtigger

United Kingdom
153 Posts

Posted - 02/16/2011 :  10:26:18  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Got the engine painted now


Could not resist trying out some of the clean bits on it to see what it looked like

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neilc

United Kingdom
69 Posts

Posted - 02/16/2011 :  17:02:48  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I really can't wait to see this in the flesh at some point. Fantastic attention to detail.

Cristal - 1971 300 SEL 6.3 #5549, UK RHD
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pjtigger

United Kingdom
153 Posts

Posted - 02/25/2011 :  12:22:37  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
The bearings arrived from Germany yesterday so i can now start assenbling the bottom end.






The owner has also picked up a set of Penta wheels he wants to use on the car (we've also got the original steels rims that will be refurbished and then stored) The Pentas will be sprayed the same colour as the car.



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S class

South Africa
955 Posts

Posted - 02/25/2011 :  15:47:07  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
That engine looks great.

Are you sure the offset of those wheels is OK? They look like the later high offset type used on W201/124. W109/116 needs an offset of typically et11 on 16" wheels, et23-25 for 15" wheels, et30 for 14" wheels.



116.036
116.036
116.024
107.044
202.018



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pjtigger

United Kingdom
153 Posts

Posted - 02/25/2011 :  15:59:18  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Their 15" et23 , when we first got them we tried them on the other 6.3 we've got. They had 225 tyres on them but these are to wide so were planning on using 205's , this also gives us a much better range of rubber than the 14" rims





Edited by - pjtigger on 02/25/2011 16:00:39
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Art Love

Australia
6237 Posts

Posted - 02/28/2011 :  03:39:24  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hi Paul,
Did you find a source for new 6mm metric size end fittings for your air lines?
Art
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pjtigger

United Kingdom
153 Posts

Posted - 02/28/2011 :  07:08:27  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Art

I brought stainless fittings from Classictube in the US (10x1mm if i remember correctly) and had to modify them on my lathe to take the 6mm pipe & have the correct countersink on the end . Its was a bit time consuming as theres about 50 in total but it was the only way i could do it.

Paul
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pjtigger

United Kingdom
153 Posts

Posted - 03/09/2011 :  12:22:01  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Got the fittings etc back from the platers so i can now finish reassembling the engine.





I've started to put the heads on







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pjtigger

United Kingdom
153 Posts

Posted - 03/21/2011 :  11:59:14  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
When i came to assemble the distributor drive housing i found there was the front of the drive bush had quite a lot of wear (the bore was fine though). These are now NLA with Mercedes so i ended up machining a replacement (good practive for my lathe skills )





I've now just done a dry run loose assembling all the pipework to work out the correct order to assemble everything.








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Art Love

Australia
6237 Posts

Posted - 03/21/2011 :  17:17:17  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Paul,
There are some hoses as well that you need to install before some of the metal work is bolted down. The ones associated with the thermostat particularly. Also, make sure you have that big hose between the two halves of the inlet manifold "loose" on the right manifold before you bolt them down because it is next to impossible to get it on with the manifolds in place. I'll still bet you will end up having to take something back off to get something else on.

There are a number of other issues which you are still to face. Hopefully the exhaust manifolds will fit around your engine stand, because it is easiest to fit them with the engine on the stand rather than later. As you said you are going to install the completed engine from below, I think you will have to leave the aircompressor and bracket off, because I don't think the motor will go in from below with it on. Certainly, the motor will not come up from below with the steering box in place, so you need to think about that as well. I've already mentioned the problem of the 3 front air suspension hoses - the end fittings on the new hoses won't spin on the axis of the hose so you have to turn the metal pipe fittings and there is next to no room with the assembled motor in place. The return fuel hose also needs some thought. There will be a few other things that will test your patience and ingenuity that I have forgotten or have not come up against. You may still find it is better to install the front subframe and then install the completed motor from the top.
Art
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pjtigger

United Kingdom
153 Posts

Posted - 03/22/2011 :  15:02:53  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hello Art

Work's halted at the moment until the the rubber hoses arrive (due tomorrow) , i've already got the big hose on the intake manifolds as we already had it. I think your right about it taking several attempts to get it assembled.

The exhaust manifolds will be fitted before the engine is installed but there still in need of work, when the engine & gearbox are joined i have a frame/trolley i made that takes both + the front crossmember , its on castors & allows easy positioning of the engine assembly under the car (we used it to remove it)and the manifolds can be fitted then. The air compressor bracket etc does have to be removed for instalation (i've just got it installed at the moment to help line up all the brackets/pipework etc and to make sure i havn't lost anything ).

I'm sure installing it is going to be a right challenge but it came out of there easily so must go back
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mpmorris

USA
1367 Posts

Posted - 03/24/2011 :  14:58:00  Show Profile  Visit mpmorris's Homepage  Reply with Quote
We've been installing the engine with the left exhaust manifold in place, right manifold off (left hand drive cars). I 'assume' the right hand drive cars are just the opposite with the steering box removed, of course. Does make for a nice install as you don't have to repaint the hood hinge bolts and set hood alignment.
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