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 6.3
 The rebuild starts !
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pjtigger

United Kingdom
153 Posts

Posted - 03/11/2009 :  14:45:37  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
He's a few of the things i've found on the car so far

Someones idea of a good panel fit !!


At some time in the past someone thought flashband (a stick roof repair product) was good for repairs to hide this (have a big pile of nice new Mercedes parts to fix this)


The quality of the welding between the rear firewall & seat pan could be better !! - does anyone have a photo showing how the factory finished this joint ?



Ron B

Australia
11612 Posts

Posted - 03/11/2009 :  18:05:30  Show Profile  Visit Ron B's Homepage  Reply with Quote
In the bottom picture,has the bottom been butt welded along that seam ?. It is one peice that is welded to the base panel along that line of spots.
All the rest looks fairly typical,especially the rust.. The boot lid gap is normally leaded so it can shaped to align the gap. Fit the boot lid to check the gaps when repairing it,but remember the rubber holds the boot lid up . Thats where the quarter is welded on.
Mercedes had a tool for holding the panels in alignment but I don't have measurements for it.



quote:
12-14-2004, 11:49 PM #8
Tom Hanson
MBCA Member

What the heck, try to stuff a MB 6.9 liter V8 in it. What a machine that would be..
__________________
Tom Hanson
Orange County Section
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Art Love

Australia
6226 Posts

Posted - 03/11/2009 :  18:06:13  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Paul,
See that garnish mould clip on the right in your first picture - drill the 2 rivets out, straighten it and save it and all like it. Get them rezinced if necessary. They are NLA and the 115 part that M-B supply as a replacement has a single rivet hole and will not match up with your existing holes. If some of yours are rusted out, go to the wreckers and get yourself a supply. I'll get a picture of that rear seat area for you and post it separately.
Art
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Art Love

Australia
6226 Posts

Posted - 03/11/2009 :  18:22:23  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Paul,
Here is the only one I can find on a quick look. If you send me an e.mail to artlove@bigpond.net.au, I'll take a few shots of any part of the bodywork you want and send them in high resolution. The pictures on this message board have to be less than 80Kb to post.
Art



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olliw109

Germany
385 Posts

Posted - 03/13/2009 :  15:35:01  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hello,
In case you may give me your email-adress I dare to say I could provide you with pics of almost every mm of this type of car. But minimizing all those lovely pics is a lousy thing of work for me....

300 SEL 6.3 3478+5327
Oliver
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pjtigger

United Kingdom
153 Posts

Posted - 03/22/2009 :  15:36:33  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Things are progressing along now , finished stripping the body shell and have now mounted it on the alignment frame



I thought i'd have a quick look at what was under the filler between the rear quarter & screen - not a pretty sight !



The car has now been moved into the workshop & i have started removing the rear metalwork so the rust & badly repaired accident damage can be sorted



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olliw109

Germany
385 Posts

Posted - 03/22/2009 :  18:12:51  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hello Paul,
yes, thats the way it usually goes....I have got another one of that quality in stock....waiting for whatever....
I can identify proper areas on your pics.
The area under the rear window is critical due to dirt, leafs, moisture and resulting rust etc. in there. I dont know what it is called in English, in German it is called -Beplankung hinten unten-. It connects both sides of the car in the middle.....and is made of two parts with lots of connecting points. I replaced it new ones which also cost some copper and tin thanks to the way MB built their cars at that times....
Bumpers, stuff like that etc. does not really matter and can easily exchanged.
Go for it!!! Would love to see more of the forthcoming!!


300 SEL 6.3 3478+5327
Oliver
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Art Love

Australia
6226 Posts

Posted - 03/23/2009 :  02:39:49  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Paul,
I haven't forgotten those extra pictures, just have not got back to the car.
Art
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pjtigger

United Kingdom
153 Posts

Posted - 03/25/2009 :  15:11:11  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Before i started work on this car i knew it had suffered rear accident damage that had been very badly repaired and so i would have to remove all of the rear end of the car to repair it correctly. Things have been progressing well - the rear end is now removed ! , The rear end came out a lot easier than expected as a lot of it had been brazed in (with brass) and any welding was of a very poor standard with minimal penertration so could be easily cut.

Before removing the rear section i'd welded braces across the rear door openings to support the rear roof.

Still trying to get organised in the workshop - to many toys & not enough space


Once the rear was removed it became apparent how bad the repair work was , A brand new rear had been fitted but to install it someone had cut the bottom out of the section that fits round the sills , a patch had then been tacked over the hole.



The rear section was still in its original e-coat - they hadn't even botherd to paint/underseal it but its in basically sound condition & so can be easilly rectified before reinstallation.


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pjtigger

United Kingdom
153 Posts

Posted - 04/29/2009 :  15:23:41  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Time for an update.

The rear section of the car had been removed so that it could be re-alligned properly and any damage rectified by its poor inital fitting - the lip that goes round the transmission tunnel had been hacked about and the "ears" that go round the inner sill/rocker were damaged/missing/bent (If these repairs had been in another accident i think the car would have fallen in half) . The boot/trunk floor was in very good condition except for the back edge which had a lot of holes burnt through it from the poor welding and it was distorted where someone had tried to adjust it with a hammer !! so it was decided to replace it.

Floor removed (its much easier when its not in the car )


And the new one spot welded in


The main floors are also being replaced . I was lucky and was able to save a section of the old floor that can be used as the extension band

Cutting the nice new panels from Mercedes to add the 100mm


Trial fitting the new floor before spot welding them in


When the L/H floor was removed the diagonal stiffner was found to be twisted/crushed but a bit of time & carefull use with a flypress & block fixed this







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Ron B

Australia
11612 Posts

Posted - 04/29/2009 :  18:24:27  Show Profile  Visit Ron B's Homepage  Reply with Quote
The lengths the English go to ressurect a car never cease to amaze me .Here,that car would have been scrapped and parted out as being too far gone. ( I have done it myself....)
The floor that was used to replace the damaged one in the past is a W111 Floor and it has the open holes rather that pressed shapes that the W108 had. No other difference otherwise.





quote:
12-14-2004, 11:49 PM #8
Tom Hanson
MBCA Member

What the heck, try to stuff a MB 6.9 liter V8 in it. What a machine that would be..
__________________
Tom Hanson
Orange County Section
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Chris Johnson

USA
3751 Posts

Posted - 04/29/2009 :  19:30:58  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I hope I never have to get into a car that far. Growing up in the western part of this country, you see lots of old cars with faded paint and some wrinkled sheetmetal, but rust to that extent is nearly non-existant. If you see a badly rusted car, you assume somebody just managed to limp it in from Minnesota.

I'm reluctant to take on a car with rust just getting started in the front of the rockers. Like Ron, I've parted out cars that were nowhere near as bad as what you are starting with.

Chris Johnson
If you aren't constantly impressed with your car, then it needs fixing.
100.012-12-000790
100.012-12-000867
www.300SE.org
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Kai McRae

Australia
390 Posts

Posted - 04/30/2009 :  01:07:43  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
What is the black stable mate?

Looks kind of like an Espada

1971 6.3 - #5417 -
(LPG)
1982 230E - W123 (M102)
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Art Love

Australia
6226 Posts

Posted - 04/30/2009 :  04:20:14  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Ron,
The boot floor in a W109 is a 110 part number. The new part from M-B comes with those holes in it (See the other pictures of the new boot floor). The metal discs are held in with sealant. There is no part number for the disc in the Parts Manual, and you have to retrieve them from a W108/109 donor or reuse the ones in the car you are doing if they are still useable. We have just been through that with #5810 at Justins. Had to do the same thing with #1702 15 years ago. I sometimes wonder whether there is a draw full of those discs in the Spare Parts Department for want of a part number for people to order them.
Art
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pjtigger

United Kingdom
153 Posts

Posted - 04/30/2009 :  05:16:23  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
You guys in the warmer drier climates are lucky with your rust free cars - here in the UK an original rust free car is very rare - i was quite supprised how little rust the car actually had in it . Most of my other projects have been far worse !!

1942 Ford GPW


1969 Maserati Ghibli


The Maserati is an long running project for the same person who owns the Merc (the Jeeps my own) Its a hand made body so all the panels have had to be made - i've been on it about 3 years now but the Merc is his priority

Most of the rear end work now done


Its the Black car next to the Merc - it was sent away for stripping & E-coating . The nose needs finishing & then it can all be painted



Art , I might be able to help with the part number on those cover plates - when the car was re-built they were very lazy and left all the Mercedes parts labels on everything - i think the plates still have them on . I'll have a look this afternoon.
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olliw109

Germany
385 Posts

Posted - 04/30/2009 :  08:18:55  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Dear Paul,
your efforts encourage me to believe that even my euro-no. 3478 (with structural rust/decay in all important typical areas) is worth not being slaughtered but to be restored in an adequate manner one day.

That is a totally different entry compared to my (previously) neglected US-5327 without those dramatic rust areas.

Keep restoration going and let us share your results!!Respect!!

300 SEL 6.3 3478+5327
Oliver
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