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 Justins 6.3 project with pictures..
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Art Love

Australia
6226 Posts

Posted - 01/16/2010 :  04:05:11  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Work is proceeding on the rear axle. The diff has been completely rebuilt. See Albert's fine article for detail of this. Albert showed the weld on the bearing shell trick that allowed them to be removed both for the pinion and the fixed axle. It appears Albert hasn't got to replacing the fixed axle inner bearing if I am following his article correctly. He's done the pinion bearing and as I read it, he avoided the variable thickness spacer issue there and just used the one that came out. There is also a spacer in the diff housing where the fixed axle inner bearing sits to get the correct tension on the differential gear if I understood Justin correctly (I am a surgeon, not a mechanic). The spacer comes in sizes from 1.8 to 2.2mm thick to allow for this adjustment and from what Justin tried to explain to me, that involved putting the bearing in and out repeatedly using different spacers till it was correct. In order not to destroy multiple bearings with welding in order to achieve this, the diff man who helped Justin got an identical bearing and machined it down 30 thou so it would slip in and out. I hope Albert covers this when he gets to it. Anyway, the diff is back together and it is just a case of refitting the swing axle. Here are some pictures.













This is looking inside the diff and you can see that big nut with the large teeth. That also has to be adjusted to the correct tension which I gather is the force of two strong men. To achieve that, Justin had a tool made.





This engages the teeth on the nut. I've just pushed it loosely into the hole to give you an idea. You put a bar through the holes.

Then there is the homokinetic joint that engages the centre drive. Someone had had it apart and lost a couple of the barrel rollers. For those who have not seen inside one of these before, here are some pictures. There are 3 lots of 38 rollers.













Taking the circlip out. Note the bucket to catch the rollers.

























Justin also made up a "crude" tool for the outer bearing retainer on the axles. Here are some pictures.

























To follow are a few more general pics that are self explanatory.





















Finally, and not totally relevant, we have a "production line of repaired air suspension units. This spare lot will go onto the W112 coupe which needs new bags and the set off it will then be done and go onto the other 6.3 ex Michael Smart and so on.





Art
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aplekker

USA
494 Posts

Posted - 01/20/2010 :  11:32:24  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Well, it seems that Justin and me are doing the same thing on different continents. Great!

As Art stated correctly, I have not gotten to the wheel axle bearings yet. Since I just got the mandrels for the diff bearings, I will hopefully put the rear end together this weekend. Yes, I opted for leaving the pinion bearing washer the way it was. As I said, the tolerance on the bearings are very close, and the only way that I can see there is a difference would be if the bearing was seated different, which is not likely. But one thing I did was measuring the pinion position relative to the diff housing. I will check this again when the pinion is installed.

I have the same attitude towards the diff bearings, the existing spacer should be very close. I think this whole spacer adjustment is only necessary when you replace the pinion / ring gear combination with another one. Good idea on reducing the OD of and old bearing for fitting. How did he do that? It must have been ground down, since the shell is way too hard to turn on a lathe. I would be interested to know if Justin had to adjust this spacer from the one that was installed originally.

Great job on the special tools, I will copy this immediately.

1965 600 SWB #248
1968 6.3 #0347
1971 6.3 #5745 Euro
1979 6.9 #6857 Euro
1979 450SLC 5.0 EURO
1981 300SD
1989 560SEL
2003 CL600 Brabus T12 570HP
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Art Love

Australia
6226 Posts

Posted - 01/23/2010 :  03:48:41  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Work progresses on the rear bumper while we wait on the new roller bearings for the homokinetic joint.




Those two white dots are the tops of the new plastic clips that hold the electric cable for the Euro type number plate lights which are on the top of the center of the bar.









We also did some work on the carbies of the 280S. Here's my grandson wearing appropriate head gear for working under the grill




Art
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Art Love

Australia
6226 Posts

Posted - 01/29/2010 :  05:10:23  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Here are a few more pictures from today showing progress. It's sort of obvious what things are. I'm happy to try to answer questions.













Art















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S class

South Africa
955 Posts

Posted - 01/29/2010 :  05:44:32  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Please keep the pictures coming. I'm enjoying this thread.

Thanks



116.036
116.036
116.024
107.044
202.018



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Chris Johnson

USA
3751 Posts

Posted - 01/29/2010 :  11:41:34  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hi Art,

I'm just curious if the front trailing arm bushings have the word "unten" cast into them?

Obviously, the orientation of these bushings is paramount. 15 years ago I was replacing these on my 3.5 (before the days of the internet). I got them from an independent shop, and they did not have the word "unten" anywhere on them. Without anything else to look at, I made an "educated" guess and installed them and reinstalled the rear axle in the car. My guess was wrong.

The car suffered a little from "torque steer" after that. It wasn't serious but it was there, and as the car continued to improve it became more obvious because it was the only problem the car was suffering from. I finally concluded that this was the only possible source of the problem, and when I replaced the rear air bags in 2001 I also replaced these front bushings again. This time with parts from Mr. Hanson, and the word "unten" on them. The problem was solved.

On a separate occasion (prior to getting the correct parts from Tom) I had bought a set of these through another independent. Not knowing any better at the time I put them in a car, and had similar problems as with the 3.5. When I installed them, I knew they had a 111 part number, but didn't think anything of it. It was later that I realized that the correct parts have a 110 number. Changing these out solved the problem.

It's hard to imagine that something so simple could go so wrong on multiple occasions, but it does. The point, of course, is to make sure the parts are the correct part number and are installed correctly.



Chris Johnson
If you aren't constantly impressed with your car, then it needs fixing.
100.012-12-000790
100.012-12-000867
www.300SE.org
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Art Love

Australia
6226 Posts

Posted - 01/29/2010 :  17:13:48  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hi Chris,
The rubber bushes came from Tom and have "unten". I think one has "unt" only. I'll check again today and take a closer picture. In fact, the reason that the talc is rubbed off part of one is because Justin rubbed it off to read the "unten" on it before installing it. I had warned him to ensure he put them in the right way up after reading your posting about this some time ago. We studied the parts manual, service manual and the shape of the bushes as well and I believe that they are correct. The arms are correct side up on the bench.

He is currently getting the washers and spacers correct on the swing axle shaft, hence the copy of the parts manual. Some one had replaced the spacer washers on one side of the hinge sleeve with plain washers without oiling grooves. Our measurement yesterday suggested he needs 2.1mm inner spacers, 180 351 15 52. I ordered a couple from Tom as well as a couple of 180 351 14 52 (2mm) and one each of 1.9 and 2.2mm so we could adjust the lie of the axle if necessary. Tom replied promptly to say that the standard 180 351 14 52 is NIL Stock as is 180 351 13 52, the 1.9mm spacer. This is a bit of a worry, as the 2mm 14 52 item is the standard outer spacer on all these axles. The 1.9mm not available is a bit less of a worry as wear would make its use less frequent, but 180 351 14 52 should go on our "wish list" of desirable remanufacture items.
Art

Edited by - Art Love on 01/30/2010 01:35:13
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Ron B

Australia
11612 Posts

Posted - 01/29/2010 :  17:30:19  Show Profile  Visit Ron B's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Art,the washers are used on all the Diffs from 1953 to 1973 so just poke around a finny or W108 diff to find the correct size. I need two 2.3 mm washers for Ponton,thats how I found this out. I have at least 1 x1.9 washer if you need one. The only critical part is the clearance between the swing axle and the diff housing. It says in the all the manuals that the same size washer must be used between the axle and diff on each side(of the swing axle ,inner) but you can also adjust the clearance by fitting one smaller washer ( bronze ) and one shim washer (hardened steel) to achieve a clearance of .10 mm. I have stripped a couple of spare diffs here and found all were set up like this. One thick (2mm) on one side and one thin plus a shim on the other.What is important is that the clearance is not too large( wheel alignment will go out) and too small(noises will be transmitted into the car) .I have also found steel washers with grooves and some without. So the grooved washers must go on the buffer block side of the pin where they ride against the thick washer which seats the rubber ring. The outside washer on the rear of the diff all appear to 2mm without grooves. The bronze washers must be used against the diff housing ,the steel ones will wear almost instantly ,plus wearing the diff housing.


quote:
12-14-2004, 11:49 PM #8
Tom Hanson
MBCA Member

What the heck, try to stuff a MB 6.9 liter V8 in it. What a machine that would be..
__________________
Tom Hanson
Orange County Section
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Chris Johnson

USA
3751 Posts

Posted - 01/29/2010 :  17:31:29  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
From your photos it looks as though the bushings are installed correctly. I made the post more to make others that hadn't been here yet aware of the potential problem. The ridge around the bottom side does look like it should go "down" to mate with the bracket, but the taper of the rubber in the center looks as though it should go the opposite direction. I guess that is why they decided it was appropriate to actually label the bottom side.

I guess if worse comes to worse, we could always machine down the thicker spacers. I've got a couple of sets of the thicker spacers (2.2 and 2.3) but I'm out of the 2.0 and 2.1 sizes. On the other hand, I have to believe that the 2.0 will become available again. There are just too many cars that will need it.

Chris Johnson
If you aren't constantly impressed with your car, then it needs fixing.
100.012-12-000790
100.012-12-000867
www.300SE.org
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Art Love

Australia
6226 Posts

Posted - 01/29/2010 :  17:46:54  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Ron,
Thanks for the advice. On this unit, someone had replaced the outer two washers with plain steel without oiling grooves. There were only two bronz washers in the set up. The W180 part number takes this set up back to the 220a as you said and I agree with Chris that it would be reasonable to expect the 2mm ones to be reproduced. I'll put it on the wish list anyway.
Art
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Art Love

Australia
6226 Posts

Posted - 01/30/2010 :  02:00:25  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Here is a follow up on the point Chris was making. I also changed my previous post to say the arms were the correct way up on the bench.
Here are some pictures to clarify what Chris said




This is one of the arms correct way up with the mounting plate positioned under the rubber as it mounts under the car.




Here is the same thing turned up side down as you would see it from under the car.




This is the under side of the rubber bush that sits on the mounting plate with the word "unten" embossed in the rubber as Chris mentioned.




Even though the two rubber bushings were bought at the same time, this one has "unt" rather than "unten".




This picture shows the front ends of the two trailing arms turned up side down. If you look carefully, you will see that the rim of the metal around the rubber bush is reinforced over about half its circumference, between 11 o'clock and 5 o'clock on one of them and 7 and 1 o'clock on the other. It is this which sides them right and left. The reinforced segment goes towards the center of the car. This is important. So the arm on the left in the picture is the left arm on the car and ditto for the right.




Here are the two arms back up the correct way as they go on the car.




Here they are seen from below as they mount on the car with the reinforcement on the right (left in the picture) between 5 and 11 o'clock and the reinforcing on the left one (right in the picture) between 7 and 1 o'clock

Edited by - Art Love on 01/30/2010 02:03:24
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Art Love

Australia
6226 Posts

Posted - 02/06/2010 :  03:18:02  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I've done the front and rear air suspension units for #5810 and pressure tested the fronts. The detail is in my thread on air bellows but I'll put a couple of pics here for completeness.





















Art
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Art Love

Australia
6226 Posts

Posted - 02/27/2010 :  07:31:51  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Finally got the seals for the rear tanks and have pressure tested them. A bit cumbersome with the two tanks held together by the cross pipe, but quite managable.













Front air units in.













Next job is finishing the rear axle and installing it. Interupted by the airbag work on the W112 coupe.
Art
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Art Love

Australia
6226 Posts

Posted - 03/06/2010 :  04:57:46  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Right axle tube is back onto the diff. I'll post more detail tomorrow, but this is a general view.








Art
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Art Love

Australia
6226 Posts

Posted - 03/06/2010 :  23:11:02  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Here is a close up of that rebuilt swing axle joint.





Here we are checking that the diff mount is the correct distance from the front flange. We came in spot on 158mm.









Then screw in the end covers. Does anyone know if there is a specified torque for this?









Then onto an unpleasant surprise. I wasn't around when the rear axle was disassembled or I would have donated a new right axle tube from one of the donors. Justin didn't know about it either. Here is what was under the wrapping.





Being disinclined to pull the whole thing apart again, Justin proceeded to make the most of what he had.













Makes you wonder when this bearing last saw grease. It has certainly seen water. The bearing and outer shell were not much better. Note the yellow factory paint check dot on this unit.













The left hand end was better.









Here is the repair kit. It does not include the spacer halves which I cleaned up. Fit was pretty good, but we have decided to stop work on this and order new spacers if we can get them. I was amazed at the tolerances quoted in the Service Manual of 0.01-0.02mm. I have just put the new felts in and left it at that.





















So on to the right rear axle itself. This series shows the new outer seal between the brake bas plate and the shaft, the new outer bearing and the addition of the spacer/lock washer and the conical nut. The washer goes on with the offset edge against the inner bearing shell and the flat face against the conical nut. A punch is used the lock the nut.













The rear axle outer bearing has been the subject of discussion on this forum in the past, so I shall post a couple of pictures which show that it is very different from a normal bearing.









Finally, Justin has done a number of things in this car to personalize it. One is to put in some fancy stereo. He has had an enclosed area made below the rear parcel shelf which I shall show you later. He wanted speakers in the doors, so, instead of wrecking the door panels, he has kept the original parcel trays intact and had new ones made that include speakers. I liked the touch of the street directory sticking out.





He has bought tyres for the 14" wheels. They are Yokohama S760 215/65R14 96H and were $80 per tyre cheaper than Michelin. In Queensland, several years ago, the government allowed the use of H rated tyres on cars which came exfactory with higher speed ratings because the maximum speed limit here is 110Kph. It is about the only dispensation allowed on factory specs without Dept of Transport certification.





Finally, he bought new door strikers. He had the original strikers chrome plated and took the new striker rubber centres out and put them in the chromed units.





That's it folks.
Art

Edited by - Art Love on 03/06/2010 23:41:02
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